Worktop not deep enough - cheat options?

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I had planned on using an IKEA Numerar worktop (solid wood) in our utility room. It's a short run of 1200mm.

Now the reality is here, I find I need a depth of around 660mm. But the Numerar worktop is only 620mm deep. Gah!

I have two choices, I think:
1) Source a deeper worktop.
2) Improvise with the 40mm gap at the back of the worktop.

Option 1) will cost me, I think. (price of IKEA worktop is only £90). So, I'm toying with 2) given it's a utility room and life isn't perfect!

I've already figured a splashback above the worktop (which houses a sink), would take out 10mm ...

Has anyone got any ideas?

Many thanks.
 
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cut the offcut into 45mm strips and glue/screw them on the back assuming you have some offcut[this can include the sink cutout]

attach a bit off 2x2"[44x44mm] planed to the back and stain to match

take a small offcut to your local woodyard or sawmill for a match

if you only need the visable extra depth for less than half the length cut the 44mm off the other half and introduce a unit off small shelves a cupboard or simmilar to cover the 91mm infill timber
 
Depending on what edge finishing you ask for and a suitable joining option*, how about fitting two 660mm lengths perpendicular to the normal worktop direction: one would be the standard 620mm width and the other would be 580mm - 40 mm trimmed by you or IKEA from the normal 620mm width, giving you a total length of 1200mm and depth of 660mm, as required?

NOTE: I als think you can order non standard worktop widths from IKEA, i.e. can't you get one 660mm wide? I'm almost certain this is possible, though maybe not in every style and material but having checked last year's IKEA catalogue it says Numerar are 'also available as custom made worktops'. Probably more expensive though!

*maybe a joining strip that could perhaps go in front of and behind the sink if suitable lengths were cut and the sink crosses the join, unless you can do more sophisticated joints yourself.
 
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Nice idea. Thanks. I'll be stocking up on cheap hotdogs and Swedish cheese on Monday so I'll check my options.


A slightly less elegant solution might be to pack out the top above the worktop - e.g. with two bits of plasterboard. That would hide the gap (into which I could just insert a piece of timber.) Replastering and painting isn't a problem.

I don't need the full depth at the top - it's for various other (tediously complex) reasons that it needs to end 660mm from the back wall.
 

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