Worktop router cutting bits

[jonnywells]

Im going to have to cut 1 laminate corner join in some kitchen tops im hoping to fit over xmas (first time ever doing this!!)

Going to hire the kit for a day from HSS hire as have used them in the past and seemed ok (http://www.hss.com/g/3166/Worktop-Jig.html)

Looking for a cutter and off over to screwfix later in the week, would 1 of these be ok cutting a duropal laminate worktop (40mm)

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/69368.../Titan/Straight-Router-Cutter-1-2-12-7-x-50mm

Im going to buy 2 as im going to pratice on my old worktop first

 

[Master of None]

If you are going to buy 2 you might as wall buy these.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/50322/Blades/Router-Cutters/Sets/Kitchen-Fitters-Pack

I used this pack a few weeks ago and managed 2 90 deg joints and a sink and a hob cut out. Just.... retiring all three.

I then damaged one edge during installation and had to buy one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/48020...d/Trend-2-Flute-Straight-Cutter-1-2-12-7x63mm

to finish the job.

The better quality cutter might last a little longer but I did not notice any difference in quality of finish.

When you fit the cutter set the router so the tip of the tool is just beyond the router base and check both blades are running true at their tip by resting a rule against one and rotate half a turn by hand. For some reason mine sometimes had a 1mm run out. Can be corrected by loosening and turning collet 90 deg and checking again.

 

[jonnywells]

Thanks, i did not see them. They will help cutting out the sink and hob

Just got to learn how to adjust the jigs now as the wall isnt completely square.

 

[Master of None]

I cut the female part of the joint square first then cut the male to suit the slightly out of square walls. Take your time and think everything through before you cut. I cut mine in a particular order so that any small mistake (1-2mm) could be rectified by moving or cutting the next worktop to compensate. Its easy to make a mistake. I got mine bang on first time then damaged one during installation, then purchased a new worktop and cocked it up then had to buy another.
You can find loads of info on here about it, have a read especially about cutting direction, top up, top down, depth of pass, speed etc. Its all important.
I know I am making it sound like rocket science (It was for me as an amateur) but I did a good job in the end.

PS the adhesive / filler (color fill) is available in wickes and b&q. Caution it starts to go off very quickly be ready to assemble.

PPS If you are going to router the cut outs like I did use the jig but remember to clamp some wood or something to stop the router going to far and overcutting like I did not on my replacement but did on my second replacement. Not bad eh 5 bits of worktop to fit 3 good bits.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

 

[jonnywells]

Thanks master, i have been searching on here and looking on youtube at how people cut there worktops.

I was just going to use some black silicone, is it best to get the colourfill stuff that i see most sites selling with worktops?

I have gone for a duropal flash black crystal stone finish worktop.

Ikea deliver HOPEFULLY! all the kitchen on the 23 so i can get started after xmas

 

[Master of None]

I took advice from here and used colorfill because it is made for this very job and this job only so in theory should be the best. Its not cheap at £7 a tube for 1 joint.

Ikea worktops are 620 wide. The jig I bought was for 600 OR 616 worktops and this made the job a little more complicated as you cant rely on the pegs for alignment. Your jig might be different. Make sure the instructions come with it. If they don't this might be of help.

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/trend/content/content_handler.php?record_type=Downloads&id=11920