mr_mike said:
Circular saw (more accurate for cutting straight sections)
Make sure you get a fine tooth blade, preferably an ATB (alternate top bevel) with a few more teeth than the standard supplied rip blade
mr_mike said:
Varnish or PVA Adhesive (for sink/hob cut-outs)
PVA needs to be exterior (cross-linking) grade - the interior stuff like Evostick green will redissolve in contact with water. I tend to use a thin spraed of silicone instead which saves me carrying PVA
I agree with the comments about 1/2in routers - in any case it's difficult to get the 50mm long x 1/2in diameter cutters you need to do a worktop in 1/4 in shank. Make sure the cutters you use are new and only let each cutter do 4 faces (2 joints) and no more - that way you'll avoid chipping out the edges
Add to that lot:
Mastic/sealant gun (for the silicone)
Disposable gloves (for handling silicone and anything to do with drains, especially in warm weather)
Cordless drill/driver with Pozidrive bits (for fixing the tops to the stretchers at the top of the carcasses) and add a decent size (say 1/2in or 5/8in) to drill starter holes for the cut-outs)
Builder's level and torpedo level (to check that your carcasses and tops are all level - not nive to have a worktip where spills run downhill into the corner or to the back iof the top behind the sink)
And thin paper/card/plastic/laminate for levelling shims.........
davecooper said:
From which side of the worktop should I make the sink cut out? Also, how many biscuits for the worktop end?
If you are using a downcut blade on yopur jigger, make the cut from the top with the orbit switched off. A couple of biscuits should hold the worktop ends, after all the biscuits are really only there to help you locate the tops.
Scrit