worn down rad bleed valve

[buster69]

hi all

any advise on how i can bleed a rad with a worn down valve?

the gap is to narrow for long nosed pliers and the valve is also approx 6 inches from an adjacent partition wall.

cheers

 

[kirkgas]

you might be lucky and be able to hammer on a small socket which might grab it. is the bleed valve screwed straight into the rad or (hopefully) screwed into a 1/2" plug in the end of the rad, if this type it is much easier to replace the 1/2" plug with bleed valve in it.

 

[TicklyT]

Is the valve fitted in a plug screwed int the radiator(usually about 1/2" or 3/4" diameter with a hexagon head surrounding the bleed valve)?

If it is, then you may be able to remove the plug complete with bleed valve, and replace the whole assembly with a new one.

Turn your heating off, and let it cool down. If anything does go wrong, it's bad enough working with cold water running up your sleeve, You definitely don't want scalding hot water.

Shut both the lockshield and wheelhead/thermostatic valve feeding the radiator (note how far you have to turn the lockshield to close it).
Expect some air and water to come out when you loosen the plug.
Wait for the air and water to stop before fully unscrewing it. If the flow doesn't stop, the valves aren't sealing. Either re-tighten the plug and consider other options, maybe draining the entire system, or get ready to work VERY quickly and get VERY wet

Water from central heating systems is almost guaranteed to indelibly stain carpets, clothing, wallpaper and paintwork, so have buckets and old towels ready to catch it. A dustpan is useful as you can put the flat edge against a wall to catch drips.

Don't rely on a thermostatic valve to remain sealed for long- they open themselves as the room cools.

Prepare your new valve ready to screw straight in before you start. Collect everything you think you could possibly need and place it directly to hand. It's no good leaving your bucket in the garage until you have water running down the walls - even worse if it's still on the shelf at B&Q.

If the valve screws directly into the radiator, I would consider :-
1. packing out the flats on a radiator key with strips of metal cut from a old tin (aluminium foil is too soft) so it's a drive on fit on the valve.

2. Glueing a key onto the bleed valve, using something like Devcon 'Plastic Steel' or an epoxy resin.

3. Cutting a screwdriver slot in the top of the bleed valve with a small dremel cutting disc or the end of a junior hacksaw blade.

4. Finding a small 1/4" drive socket that can be driven over the remains of the screw to grip it.

5.Flattening a bleed valve key to grip what's left of the bleed screw.

Any way round it, you will probably want to get a new bleed screw first.

 

[buster69]

cheers kirk

the hexagon nut you mentioned is whats worn down. It is surrounded by a sheath (hope that makes sense). their is a small gap between the sheath and the hexagon nut but its not big enough to get anything in to it

 

[buster69]

sorry

meant the hexagon head has worn down

 

[kirkgas]

cheers kirk

the hexagon nut you mentioned is whats worn down. It is surrounded by a sheath (hope that makes sense). their is a small gap between the sheath and the hexagon nut but its not big enough to get anything in to it

ok is the bleed valve screwed right into the rad or is it into a 1/2" BSP plug

 

[JayJay1978]

A good bleed valve key never goes a mis, I had this problem and got round it by filing the end of the key down to expose the flats more.

Some keys have chamfers at the start of the flats for some reason, if that makes sense.

 

[buster69]

jay,

good idea to file it down, what did you use? the valve sticks out of the sheath by approx 1mm so im a bit limited.

cheers kirk bit to advanced for me im afraid, all i know is the bit on the radiator that you turn with the bleed key no longer has any flat edges, it is virtually circular.

 

[Unklian]

Hi There.

Somebody else had a similar problem and found this helpful.

Mix some good quality epoxy. Araldite or similar and glue the key onto the valve overnight.

Next morning, it should remove the valve.

You will of course need a new valve and key.

Ian.

 

[ed999]

A good bleed valve key never goes a mis, I had this problem and got round it by filing the end of the key down to expose the flats more.

Some keys have chamfers at the start of the flats for some reason, if that makes sense.

Good suggestion - only took a few minutes and worked perfectly.

 

[buck51]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Radiator-...aterials_Plumbing_MJ&var=&hash=item3a71765fd8

would one of these help?

 

[Bunnyman]

Mmm this is an old thread, but in an impossible situation u can isolate radiator , drain a bit off, the drill a small hole in the rad, slowly fill radiator by opening the valves, when the air is out u can use a small stainless self tapping screw with a bit of Ptfe on it and wind that in to seal hole. It does work as a last resort.