The american diy market is full of table saws with no blade guarding.
No wonder so many chop their fingers off.
The guy just did a "controlled" touch of the blade. He should have tried moving his finger into the blade just as a piece of wood would do.
Then see what happens.
As Norcon says - American saws are just plain deficient in so many areas; poor blade guards, splitters set well back from the blade and/or which won't tilt, rip fences which can and do trap work on centre rips (causing kick back), lack of brakes, complete lack of common sense or knowledge when it comes to the use of push sticks (sure, it's safe to run your fingers right past a spinning blade, ain't it?), etc Add to that the idiot desire to drink beer and woodwork simultaniously and that's why they need SawStops. It's a bit like the way Yanks insisted on having air bags rather than seat belts back in the 1970s - why build in promary safety when you can come up with a sticking plaster solution and earn loads of dosh?
That's exactly what happens - you destroy the cartridge and the blade each time - so it's not just $60 for the cartridge (plus an extra $1000 or so on the price of the saw to strengthen it and add the automatic blade retract mechanism, you missed that), but also another £50 to £70 for a high quality blade.
One thing you didn't mention is that the inventor is an Atorney (lawyer) and that he's already tried several times to have his saw mandated in the USA. Another thing you may not know is that he's allegedly hawked his idea around European manufacturers who were seemed disinterested to a man - perhaps it was because of the rumoured inability of this "world beating" technology to handle the 12in or larger blades we use on "trade" saws over here. If you legislate it has to be for ALL saws, not just piddling little home shop ones
For cutting timber you can't beat a good band saw. And more importantly fitted with a quality carbide tipped blade. Takes up much less floor space too.
Any thing a table saw can do a band saw can do better imo.
I can rip 200mm with ease on a basic machine.
Except of course when you move up into the more professional machines that the likes of Felder make. Then you have the long arbour and dado blade options plus accurate sliding tables and scorer blade options.
Rebate the edge of a plank in two cuts? Trim dead to size with a square face? Cut an accurate mitre which you can joint straight off the blade without any need for clean-up? Make a square, chip free cut in veneered or melamine-faced MDF or particle board?
I'd say there is a lot of overlap between the two, but that one could never completely replace the other, or vice versa
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