HI,
I have a 30 yr-old Ideal E Type RS (35N ) Balanced-flue boiler.
The main burner is not lighting. There is power down to the gas-valve
( this goes to a solenoid, I believe, although it would be a 240V solenoid, whereas I have heard tell of 24V ones? )
The gas-valve 'knob' is grey. ( I dont know the exact gas-valve model, but it has V404 stamped on it ) I have performed the 'turn-on' procedure many times. In the past, it has always worked OK, but now it wont. BTW, the pilot-light IS lit.
I have checked the solenoid for continuity and the coil resistance is 5K. Rated as 240V@20mA, I would expect 12K. Also, I dont hear a 'clunk' from the solenoid when it energises, although maybe that's normal.
Is this a replacement job? Just how complex is it to fit a new valve?
I know you're expected to be competent, but it cant be that tricky to
undo 2 nuts. Does a new valve need 'setting up' or is it a plug-in replacement? ( just asking: it's a nightmare to try and find an honest trader )
Regards
Bruce
I have a 30 yr-old Ideal E Type RS (35N ) Balanced-flue boiler.
The main burner is not lighting. There is power down to the gas-valve
( this goes to a solenoid, I believe, although it would be a 240V solenoid, whereas I have heard tell of 24V ones? )
The gas-valve 'knob' is grey. ( I dont know the exact gas-valve model, but it has V404 stamped on it ) I have performed the 'turn-on' procedure many times. In the past, it has always worked OK, but now it wont. BTW, the pilot-light IS lit.
I have checked the solenoid for continuity and the coil resistance is 5K. Rated as 240V@20mA, I would expect 12K. Also, I dont hear a 'clunk' from the solenoid when it energises, although maybe that's normal.
Is this a replacement job? Just how complex is it to fit a new valve?
I know you're expected to be competent, but it cant be that tricky to
undo 2 nuts. Does a new valve need 'setting up' or is it a plug-in replacement? ( just asking: it's a nightmare to try and find an honest trader )
Regards
Bruce