Y plan setup question

[Classic40]

Hi,

Just looking at my system I don't think the installer has fitted it correctly;
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I think they should be a pipe going up at the highest point with an air vent to clear the air from the heating coil within the cylinder. (I was thinking the elbow before the 22mm pipe goes into the cylinder)

Also I would like to fit a pressure gauge as the boiler is in a different location to the cylinder. I do have a gauge with 1/4 connector on it but I have been unable to find anything suitable to fit this to a 22mm pipe.

Somebody said to me that I should have an auto by pass fitted? I was confused by this... All of my rads but the hall and bathroom have TRVs (Only 7 rads in the full system)

EDIT... I forgot to say I have changed the ball valve fitted on the return coming off the cylinder for a gate valve.

Thanks.

 

[St0rmer66]

Nothing wrong with it. If it's not getting air locked then why do you need an air vent? With the manual vent there on the left to assist filling the system the first time then on a sealed system there really shouldn't be any (or much at least) air to get back in! In either case it's not a requirement, just makes it easier (plenty don't even have a vent and you just pump it round on the first fill).

The radiator in the hall without a TRV can act as a bypass. With a Y-plan valve, one port is always open so a bypass isn't always needed (unless the boiler manufacturer specifically says so). If you have a system boiler with an integrated pump then it may even have an integral auto-bypass anyway.

To put the pressure gauge in will require a series of reducers or bushes. Might be easier to find a 1/2" one (22mm to 15mm then to 1/2") to reduce the number of reducing bits needed.

 

[Boilerman2]

In that scenario I would have fitted some sort of vent to the Primary flow connection at the cylinder

 

[St0rmer66]

Just noticed you have an ideal classic. No bypass needed.

 

[Classic40]

For some reason it does seem to get air trapped, on the top of boiler there is an auto air vent + manual air vent for the flow & return. (Auto vent went crazy when I refilled the system so I know this works fine)

Good news on not needing an auto bypass.

Every time I bleed the rads I seem to get a bit of air, same with manual air vents on pipework.

The heating coil does sound like it's got air trapped in it too. I will see about adding a vent there at some point.

Pump is set to speed 2, not tested it on speed 1. It was on speed 3 when I got the house 2 and a half years ago.

Earlier on in the year I added a bottle of cleanser and ran system for two weeks and flushed out with fresh water a few times until the water was clear then refilled and added inhibitor. (The water flushed out was pretty clean/clear and the rads I removed to hose was pretty clear too, only a tiny bit of black crap)

Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[Classic40]

Any idea's to get the air out of the cylinder without draining it down and adding the high point to the pipework?

Also any idea's why it's getting air in the first place?

Thanks.

 

[St0rmer66]

When you bleed a sealed system for the first time you're getting out most of the air but there's still air dissolved in the water which will gradually release itself.

For your system there I'd take out the pressure (not drain completely!) and cut the manual vent off, extend the pipe a small amount then put an auto air vent in its place. No need for both. If you don't want to do that then just keep manually bleeding, it'll stop eventually!

 

[BigSnoopy01]

is that a ballafix on the cylinder return?

prob not rated for heating system, next time you drain down fit a lockshield gate valve. auto air vents should only be fitted next to the pump, manual vents else where.

 

[St0rmer66]

is that a ballafix on the cylinder return?

prob not rated for heating system, next time you drain down fit a lockshield gate valve. auto air vents should only be fitted next to the pump, manual vents else where.

He already put that he's changed it

 

[pallen5000]

Would not worry about fitting an air vent, dont need one. If its circulating through the coil ok, why generate more work.

 

[Classic40]

is that a ballafix on the cylinder return?

prob not rated for heating system, next time you drain down fit a lockshield gate valve. auto air vents should only be fitted next to the pump, manual vents else where.

Hi,

Ball valve removed and replaced with a gate valve rather then lockshield gate valve as I didn't have a tool to adjust the flow (I understand both items are the same but the end part which adjusts the control)

Thanks.

 

[Classic40]

Hi again,

The auto air vent has started leaking water again so I have replaced this with a 70p manual vent;

However I am still having issues when the system is first turned on sounds like trapped air is circulating.

Another thing which has cough my eye is the filling loop as pictured at the top. I understand the double check valve should be fitted on the cold mains.

Mine is fitted on the heating side of the 3 port valve, I do wonder if this could be causing air to enter the system?

 

[DeletedUser]

There's no way air can get into the system while it's under pressure.Have you added an inhibitor upon refilling?

 

[Nige F]

Micro leak on negative pressure section of pipework

 

[Classic40]

Hi,

I only drained a small amount to take the pressure out to fit the new vent, system has inhibitor in it.

Another problem is I can't get it to fill higher then 1.1 bar which made me think that the double check as the water goes though this when filling.

I will get a new filling loop and fit this the correct way anyhow.