y plan wiring

[sandysandy]

hi good people
replaced motorised valve y plan
need to know where the white wire needs to connect and with what...
all diagrams i have seen seem to indicate should connect with terminal from room stat..
now this is where i become ignorant and helpless
i dont have a room stat. for heating... stats only on radiators. presently the white wire connects with the connection block independent of anything else
is this because i have no room stat??? Problem is I can only get heating to rads when push lever over to manual on motorised valve.. which means I am running hot water and central heating together.. Hot water runs independent and is fine. problem cannot get heating to work independently.
boiler is an old glow worm 80 fires up when asked by controller for hot water perfect
but not for heating
any help with the wiring would be good

 

[Rob]

It should connect to the Heating ON terminal of your programmer.

 

[seco services]

fit a stat and it will be up to standards then.

programmer heating call, to stat, stat calling, to white wire.

 

[sandysandy]

so to make sure I connect to the right wire
look at the wiring in my programmer..can I do that by just lifting the front panel of the programmer to check???

 

[Rob]

Yeah it should be displayed on the back of the programmer.

Usually its terminal 4 but could vary depending on which programmer you have, of course.

 

[sandysandy]

exciting stuff this learning and saving on the job with your help
i know i shouldnt start a new topic but you couldnt recommend a good site to learn how to use a circuit tester could you.. got one but no instructions

thanks again

 

[MANDATE]

Isn't that defeating the objective by not having a room stat.
When both HW and CH are selected and the valve goes to mid position until one side of the system is satisfied, then the satisfied side is closed off leaving the unsatisfied side fully open.
When both sides are satisfied power to boiler is cut by the cylinder stat and the room stat.
So with no room stat, the white wire is always live, so it cant drop back to satisfy the HW if required, unless the CH is turned off. So the valve can't work as it was designed to.

 

[sandysandy]

ive looked at nearly everything i can on the web about the wiring of this system..
they all seem to require a room stat...of which i have none
that doesn't mean to say that the system hasnt worked (or has it properly worked)? for the last 12 years or so.

set up is BOILER = COMPLHEAT FUELSAVER 80 GLOW WORM
CONTROLLED BY
HONEYWELL ST699 PROGRAMMER
ALL DOWNSTAIRS

IN AIRING CUPBOARD
IMMERSION TANK WITH
CLAMP ON SUNVIC THERMOSTAT
Y PLAN VALVE MOTORISED
10 PORT JUNCTION BOX
AND POWER SUPPLY

ALL WIRING IS AS INSTALLATION GUIDE FOR Y VALVE
EXCEPT THAT IS THE WHITE FROM VALVE GOES TO TERMINAL 5 AS SPECIFIED BUT DOES NOT CONNECT WITH ANYTHING
I HAVE A SINGLE YELLOW (I THINK COMES FROM THE PROGRAMMER) THAT SITS ALONE IN TERMINAL 4...

THE POWER SUPPLY TO THE SYSTEM HAD FUSED SOME 2 WEEKS OR SO BACK..NO POWER TO THE PROGRAMMER...REPLACED WITH 3 AMP FUSE
EVERYTHING SEEM TO WORK OK

HOWEVER FIND THAT NO CENTRAL HEATING HOT WATER FINE AND WORKING WITH THE PROGRAMMER. SO THOUGHT AFETR TALKING ON HERE THAT THE MOTORISED VALVE WAS FAULTY..SO REPLACED MOTOR...NOTICED THAT THE TWO WIRES FROM THE EXISTING MOTOR PRACTICALLY FELL OFF...AND CIRCUITRY LOOKED BURNED AT THE BACK OF THE HEAD BOX...SO THOUGHT BURNT OUT MOTOR..... REPLACED WITH NEW MOTOR ...NO JOY...

SO THOUGHT VALVE SEIZED AND CONSEQUENTLY BURNT OUT MOTOR..SO REPACED LIKE FOR LIKE...

WE have had an issue for a couple of years where if the hot water only was on we would get some heating as well..which spells out the valve problem i suppose...

anyway it would seem that this install is a bit of a rae one that doesnt follow the simple rules..

just wondered if the fusing of the system was as a result of the motorised valve burning out and in turn knackering the controller..

I can push to manual to get hot water running to both hot water and central heating
but im sure this cant be doing the valve any good

everything fires up and operates normally for hot water even when the valve is at auto

guess im at a loss...Instinct says replace control ST699 for the same
but dont want to find out that something else is giving me the problem hence mor pennies..

spoke to a plumber wh new nathing

said heating engineers your man son...

rare as hens teeth round here

so if there is anyone out there who can help or advise please do

if you think a diagram of install would help let me know

BRRRRRRRRR ITs getting cold and the little lady is starting..

cheers

 

[sandysandy]

ive looked at nearly everything i can on the web about the wiring of this system..
they all seem to require a room stat...of which i have none
that doesn't mean to say that the system hasnt worked (or has it properly worked)? for the last 12 years or so.

set up is BOILER = COMPLHEAT FUELSAVER 80 GLOW WORM
CONTROLLED BY
HONEYWELL ST699 PROGRAMMER
ALL DOWNSTAIRS

IN AIRING CUPBOARD
IMMERSION TANK WITH
CLAMP ON SUNVIC THERMOSTAT
Y PLAN VALVE MOTORISED
10 PORT JUNCTION BOX
AND POWER SUPPLY

ALL WIRING IS AS INSTALLATION GUIDE FOR Y VALVE
EXCEPT THAT IS THE WHITE FROM VALVE GOES TO TERMINAL 5 AS SPECIFIED BUT DOES NOT CONNECT WITH ANYTHING
I HAVE A SINGLE YELLOW (I THINK COMES FROM THE PROGRAMMER) THAT SITS ALONE IN TERMINAL 4...

THE POWER SUPPLY TO THE SYSTEM HAD FUSED SOME 2 WEEKS OR SO BACK..NO POWER TO THE PROGRAMMER...REPLACED WITH 3 AMP FUSE
EVERYTHING SEEM TO WORK OK

HOWEVER FIND THAT NO CENTRAL HEATING HOT WATER FINE AND WORKING WITH THE PROGRAMMER. SO THOUGHT AFETR TALKING ON HERE THAT THE MOTORISED VALVE WAS FAULTY..SO REPLACED MOTOR...NOTICED THAT THE TWO WIRES FROM THE EXISTING MOTOR PRACTICALLY FELL OFF...AND CIRCUITRY LOOKED BURNED AT THE BACK OF THE HEAD BOX...SO THOUGHT BURNT OUT MOTOR..... REPLACED WITH NEW MOTOR ...NO JOY...

SO THOUGHT VALVE SEIZED AND CONSEQUENTLY BURNT OUT MOTOR..SO REPACED LIKE FOR LIKE...

WE have had an issue for a couple of years where if the hot water only was on we would get some heating as well..which spells out the valve problem i suppose...

anyway it would seem that this install is a bit of a rae one that doesnt follow the simple rules..

just wondered if the fusing of the system was as a result of the motorised valve burning out and in turn knackering the controller..

I can push to manual to get hot water running to both hot water and central heating
but im sure this cant be doing the valve any good

everything fires up and operates normally for hot water even when the valve is at auto

guess im at a loss...Instinct says replace control ST699 for the same
but dont want to find out that something else is giving me the problem hence mor pennies..

spoke to a plumber wh new nathing

said heating engineers your man son...

rare as hens teeth round here

so if there is anyone out there who can help or advise please do

if you think a diagram of install would help let me know

BRRRRRRRRR ITs getting cold and the little lady is starting..

cheers

 

[MANDATE]

I dont' think your ST699 is the problem but I think you may well have a problem with the actuator that sits on top of the valve.(don't know yet)
But none of matters yet until the wiring is sorted
It can't be right if the 'white' don't connect with anything.
Also the yellow sitting alone doing what?.
The valve depends on the white for it to move to mid position.
It starts at the programmer CH ON terminal, should go through a room stat and then make the 'white' live. OK without a room stat the 'white' still needs to made live by the programmer.
Now this 'yellow' could that be coming from the programmers CH ON terminal. Have you tested it? Does switching the CH on and off at the programmer make this yellow 'live' and 'not live'
Just remember when you have both HW and CH off at the programmer the 'grey' wire will still be live.

 

[sandysandy]

hi mandate thanks for this
Now testing the wiring....ha ha
I know what your going to say get an electrician in...
well yes if i could a. get hold of one and b. afford one right now...
so here we go im sure with a little help from my friends this can be accomplished...I DO HAVE A TESTER UNIT .....However Not sure what goes where to test live switch etc... so if you would like to guide me would be great...Im not thick just a graphic artist interested in doing as much as i can and undersatnding a bit better

cheeers

 

[MANDATE]

Is there not a position on your meter that caters for 240volts AC.
Black probe to 'neutral' or 'earth' wire, Red probe to 'yellow' .
Electric is dangerous if care not taken

 

[sandysandy]

hi funnily enough went down the shed to get my multimeter
LCD Display seems to be crushed..
nipping out to get a new one now..
could i be a pain as you seem so helpful if i sent you an email schematic drg of my
wiring as it stands you could study and show me
a) where you think possible problems
b) where i should probe the contacts to test

I know that this is a bit of a cheek but it would help a lot
cheeers
sandy

 

[MANDATE]

This forum supports images in the form of photos and drawings so you should use the facilities available, if you think it may help to resolve your problems.
You also need to understand. The 10 terminal box is purely a junction box and what you may have in term 6, might be in term 4 on someone elses system.
There is no 'rule' that says you must use the same terminals or the same wire colours, so terminal numbers and wire colours have little meaning, unless you know what the wire is connected to.

However you will find most mid position valve manufactuers will use the same colours 'white' 'grey' and 'orange' to perform the same function.
As already stated regarding the C H. Power comes from the CH ON terminal on the programmer, it goes to room stat, then from room stat it gors to 'white' wire of valve.
Ok so you've no room stat, so it must be programmer to 'white' of valve.
Have you tested the yellow wire that you think comes from programmer.
If that comes from the CH ON terminal and you're not using a room stat, then it should be connected to the white of the valve.