zanussi w1242w Turbo dry 1200

[satnam]

Hello Everyone,
I could use someones help. I have a Zanussi W1242W washer dryer. The other day the fuse in the wall socket blew, I replaced the fuse but it blew again. I dismantled the machine only to find the the timer/programmer displayed burn marks. I've now replaced the programmer which was expensive, and have replaced the fuse in the socket. My machine has now started working again. However, I have noted that when I select a programme setting and start the programme, the programme dial is meant to progrssively move as it goes through the wash cycles. The programme dial does not move, as a result the tub seems to over fill with water and we have to move the programme dial round by hand. Please help.

 

[zipper]

Could be a hole in the pressure switch hose or perhaps the pressure switch is defective. Is the PNC number 914634533 or 914634538?

 

[satnam]

Hello Zipper thanks for your advise. The part number of my machine is; 914634533. Could you please tell me where this pressure hose or pressure switch is?

 

[zipper]

Some earlier models had problems with damage to the pressure hose because of routing (they got damaged over time by coming into contact with a suspension spring). Models with serial numbers 539---- & above were modified at the factory so this didn't happen. Check if your S/N is below this. The pressure switch (may be two of them) is near the right hand corner in the rear of the machine. It is a circular plastic object about 10cm in diameter & has a 1/4" rubber hose. It is usually clipped in place at the side just under the lid (which you have to remove obviously).

 

[satnam]

Hello Zipper,

Thanks for your help so far. Last night after stripping the machine again I found the pressure switch and it's hose. I removed the hose and can confirm that there are no holes. I removed the prseure switch and dismantled it to look inside. The diaphram inside is intact, no holes or splits, and the electrical contacts inside do not display and evidence of any arcing or sparking and visabley look fine. The pressure switch which I dismantled is in the area you described. I'm not sure if there is a second one. Do you or anyone have any other thoughts please?

 

[satnam]

Hello Everyone,
I've been looking at this washing machine's behavour very carfully. If I select 50 degree wash which is called program 'K' The program will start by allowing water to enter into the drum but it does not stop, water contiues to enter unless I intervene by turning thr dial by hand. From this point the wash cycle works but I do need to move the dial by hand to move the cycle to the next phase.
However if I select the 30 degree wash which, on this machine is called 'L'. The program starts as normal by allowing water to enter into the drum, however, this time the water reaches it's correct level and stops automatically. The next phase in the wash is to turn the drum, this does not happen unless I turn the dial by hand, from this point I need to turn the dial by hand to move the wash to the next phase, but not always, sometimes the dial turn off it's own accord as it should.
We cannot afford a new machine espaccally when you consider that I've already spent £130 on a new program/timer.
Please help

 

[zipper]

Hybrid timers are complicated. Where did you get the new one & what is it's part number? Did you keep the old one & can you identify where the burnt tracks are or post a good close-up photo? Timers not advancing can have several causes; faulty temp selector, timer motor not getting voltage or mechanically jammed, NTC shorted O/C etc. Overfilling is usually caused by other issues; a fault in the pressure system, jammed solenoid valve, faulty pcb/timer etc.
Check for a bad contact on the card by taking off each connector one at a time re-seating it.

 

[satnam]

Hello Zipper,

I brought the timer brand new from Partsmaster. It's part number is; DST1320558123.
I've compared the 2 timers to each other and they are both the same.
I've attached a photo. Please ingnore the felt marks, that me numbering the electrical plugs as I removed them. The timer is not seized as it can be moved by hand, very easily. I belive the timer does not move because it's not told to move or an input fron a sensor is missing

 

[satnam]

Hello Zipper,

When you say that the cause could be the timer motor not getting voltage. Could you tell me where this voltage comes from? Are there fuses inside the machine which I have not checked?

 

[zipper]

The synchronous timer motor gets its voltage supply via a triac on the pcb attached to it. But there are no fuses to speak of. There are normally only 2 triacs on the card, the second one controls the drum motor & speed regulation circuit. I can't find your photo? It would be worthwhile taking a peek at it as it may give us information on the reason why the board popped in the first place. BTW the part you bought is the right one for this model.