Zanussi Washer FT1093, replacing main universal motor.

[john2018]

Hi all, I am looking for confirmation of control PCB and mechanical contactor switch(MCS) wires to a new motor which has a plastic connector with 6 spades including the two tacho wires.

The old motor has 8 spades including two tacho (not a problem) and two loop wires. The loop connects the thermal cutout to the field winding. Spin has two speeds fast and faster.

I have followed the remaining four wires in question from the existing harness motor connector within the machine casing. One wire goes to the controller PCB (27C6E) positioned low on the right hand side plastic base frame towards the back. The other three wires go to the mechanical contactor switch PCB (Crouzet 770132430-1) 5 place connector (M1-M5) using M1, M4 & M5. The MCS has the Ref 175 type 2000 H2 124620402.

The old and new motors are the same in internal wiring, single field winding, except that the thermal cutout is on the field winding on the old motor (CESET. COD 12405480/0) but on the brush wiring in the new motor. Shiny new motor is Indesco Electronic Control, Ref 940M31

The object is to transfer the old motor plastic connector to the new motor, and populate the old connector with the spades from the new motor, in the right position to connect to the wiring harness.

So, why bother with a 20 year old machine ? Well it started when the fast spin went out of balance and machine was switched off. When I went to check it without a load the commutator sparks were aggressive. The bearings had also been rumbling for some time so new brushes, polish the commutator and split the tub, to sort the bearings. (Quality tub, 17 screw fixing and 4mm square spigot seal, perfect. Bearing spider bolted to drum, no corrosion on spider arms but what a lot of slime in the spider pockets and back of drum!)

Having done all that two test washes went fine. The next was was flannel sheets, it went out of balance again with the commutator needing a clean up, but the armature is now suspect.
So I procured a new motor with the right mounting and multi rib pulley dia.

I need to be careful regarding final connection, if the controller board gets damaged the work is all wasted.

An official circuit diagram/schematic would be the answer, any help appreciated.

To be continued, I will need to tidy up my wiring sketches and see if the penny drops.
I am thinking that I need to identify which of the four cables in question are going live when I advance the MCS through the initial spin and then the fast spin.

Regards

 

[jj4091]

The only Zanussi diag. I have is for EWM models which use a CIM motor connected from the main PCB to an external motor control board then on to the motor. The only info that might be similar & possibly helpful to you are the outputs from the main pcb. which are as follows:
P1-J18--15V, P2-J18--5V, P3-J18--FIELD BUS RX/TX, P4-J18 --GND, P5-J18--N.C.. Also the motor connections are shown as brushes across pins 4 & 5 & 3 field windings connected in series to pins 1,2 & 3, pin 2 being the centre tap for speed control. Unfortunately it does not give any O/P values. Failing that try you tube. for videos of generic motor connections.

 

[john2018]

jj4091, Thanks for the above. I have been on you tube but have only found projects wanting to use motors to power something and do not use the control components.
I will search for a schematic from the 1990's as a start point to draw up what I have.

 

[jj4091]

I think that may be your best bet or even the 80's, as I seem to remember that Zanussi stopped using CESET motors about 30 odd years ago which I think may make your washer older than the 20 years you mentioned.

 

[john2018]

Yes got a load of schematics with a more limited search but they were all for recent machines. Took the motor apart and confirmed the field coil winding direction etc so I have a better idea how to set up the connector.

The old motor has a date on the bar code label 04/96 ! The insulation round the commutator where the wires are terminated is cracked with heat with small bits missing. On testing the armature winding resistance through the brushes from segment 1 to 9 are 3 to 5 ohms then from 10 to 18 are 168 to 173 ohms then repeats for the rest. Can't complain for over twenty years use.