Zanussi ZBF360 built in oven help please. Pop > dead

[horrgakx]

Hi all. The oven tripped the consumer board, I reset it and tried the oven again. There was a noticeable pop noise and it tripped for a second time. When I reset the switch the oven is dead, no clock, fan or light.

Am I better off just getting someone in? If so anyone aware of a repairer in the West Cumbria area?

Thanks

 

[jj4091]

The official electrolux/zanussi repairer for w. cumb comes from Carlisle. It is probably the element that has failed & any appliance repairer closer should be able to fix it for you. I cannot tell from your post if you are a competant diyer, but get the impression from the lack of info that you are not. So perhaps looking in yellow pages may be your best bet.

 

[horrgakx]

Thanks. We've had dealings with Zanussi before, within the last 2 weeks for example we've had our 3rd washing machine installed. Happily Zanussi themselves replaced it for us reducing the charges as a good will measure.

I don't mind having ago, but this would be my first time at this type of appliance. If it was more than the element that had gone then I think I would struggle to get the parts.
Thinking about it if the whole oven is dead (no clock etc) is it ONLY going to be the element ?? I think maybe not

 

[Leccy758]

What actually tripped on the circuit board.

MCB the circuit breaker just for the oven circuit (simple switch)
RCD the breaker with a push to test button and possibly lost power elsewhere in the house at the same time.
Do you have fuses and has one of them blown.
Does the cooker switch socket (if it has one) still work.

You can check the fan oven element for obvious damage by removing the back plate inside the oven and having a look (ensure the power is off first just because the clock is not working does not mean it is not powered up still)
Usually they have obvious damage either deformed, split/broken, or a hole in it.

 

[horrgakx]

Thanks for the reply, appreciated.

The cooker switch isn't RCD, it's a red switch with a neon light mounted to the wall. This light now comes on showing power from the consumer unit.

The cooker circuit on the consumer unit was what tripped. No old style fuse in the house if that's what you mean, house was built in 2004. I reset it by pushing it up.

To check for obvious damage, I can get to the back of the oven from the inside? Or does the whole unit need to come out?


Thanks.

 

[horrgakx]

If I have a look at the oven and find a blown part, where do I buy spares from please?

 

[Diyisfun]

Spares
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=e...FwNm3Aw&ved=0CBsQBSgA&q=zbf360+spares&spell=1

 

[horrgakx]

Thanks.

I found that the 13A fuse in the plug (behind the oven) had blown and also there's scorched earth wire on the element (picture below).
I measured 25 ohms between the two element terminals - too low?

Looks like it IS the element - would anyone agree/disagree?

 

[Leccy758]

The resistance of a good element should be around 27 ish ohms so that seems ok.

You need to do a check of the resistance to earth as well preferably with a insulation tester.

The black end on the actual Earth connector looks like some grease has got on it, this heats up more than air and causes the wiring to get hot and can start to char.

If the element looks ok I would check the fan motor and power them up seperately to check if they are ok,
Next time to look at the switch pack on the oven control, these can blow

From your pic (it may be the angle it was taken from) but it looks like one leg is shorter than the other on the element. (RHS or top on your pic)

 

[horrgakx]

Resistance to earth didn't register, we have insulation testers at work so I'll borrow one.

I also checked the earth's just to be sure and they're ok. The motor spins ok so the bearings are fine (but obviously I'll check the windings).

Power them up separately - you mean simply disconnect the other stuff?

PS - what size fuse should be protecting the wiring in the plug?

 

[horrgakx]

Found it!!!! The lamp holder has blown itself to pieces. I don't know if the bulb went and shorted causing something in the holder's contacts to go, but half the inside is missing. I disconnected the wires to it and the oven works a treat.

The insulation tester went all the way to 1000v and 20M without showing an issue.

I've ordered the holder and a lamp too.

Thanks for your help, I wouldn't have had the confidence to do it without.