Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 White Multi-surface Primer, sealant & stain block..doing too much?

[Anthony321]

Hello!
We have moved into a house where the walls are plasterboard.
They're in reasonably good condition but we have just removed wallpaper and are painting most of the walls (some will be wallpapered).
I prefer to "do it right" first time but also want to make sure I don't over do it.

I plan to use Bullseye 1-2-3 but realise this is fairly pricey stuff compared to normal No-Nonsense undercoat. Should we use Bullseye 1-2-3? There is a couple of Rennie Mackintosh type murals that have been on the wall historically by the looks of it.

In addition, in the room where paint is still on the walls it has a bit of a sheen to it (maybe eggshell?). We're planning on painting this Matt. Do we just use primer/sealer on this too?

 

[Groovejet]

I'm the construction trade for 20 years.
20 years ago I was naive about painting and the cost.
I now know how skilled it is and it's not just slap it on.
I'm doing a HUGE home now.. I underestimated the prep work. Even new plasterered walls have pva splashes all over.
I never knew these would be so hard to remove. Like a indentation in wall all over.
I made mistake of using diy rollers, all.be it on my pro.extension pole. This takes too long. A Poly/wool mix holds more paint, limits the loading roller up with paint.
I would use a sanding pad on a extension pole ,.lightly prep walls to create.a.key.for.paint.
Zinser is a great product, but we only use on kitchen doors and tiles for bullet proof base coat. Although Zin 123, is a route for you ,but it ain't cheap.
Try doing a test patch ,with Sanding,.to make a key for paint, Then check to see it it's robust, and won't peel or chip off easily by physically abusing it abit. Lol

 

[Anthony321]

I'm the construction trade for 20 years.
20 years ago I was naive about painting and the cost.
I now know how skilled it is and it's not just slap it on.
I'm doing a HUGE home now.. I underestimated the prep work. Even new plasterered walls have pva splashes all over.
I never knew these would be so hard to remove. Like a indentation in wall all over.
I made mistake of using diy rollers, all.be it on my pro.extension pole. This takes too long. A Poly/wool mix holds more paint, limits the loading roller up with paint.
I would use a sanding pad on a extension pole ,.lightly prep walls to create.a.key.for.paint.
Zinser is a great product, but we only use on kitchen doors and tiles for bullet proof base coat. Although Zin 123, is a route for you ,but it ain't cheap.
Try doing a test patch ,with Sanding,.to make a key for paint, Then check to see it it's robust, and won't peel or chip off easily by physically abusing it abit. Lol

Hi groovejet, thank you for the reply, hugely appreciated!

Can I check that I'm understanding....
The PVA you speak of is small areas of the wall that have glue stains that if painted directly on to would not allow the paint to "stick"?

The recommendation for sanding...is that in addition or instead of the Zinsser? And I'm thinking this should be done with a low count paper? (60?)

Sorry - I'm definitely not a professional! I don't mind too much the cost on the Zinsser. Yes it's expensi but if it'll solve all my problems and give me a long term solution I'm happy with it .

Thank you!

 

[Anthony321]

I'm the construction trade for 20 years.
20 years ago I was naive about painting and the cost.
I now know how skilled it is and it's not just slap it on.
I'm doing a HUGE home now.. I underestimated the prep work. Even new plasterered walls have pva splashes all over.
I never knew these would be so hard to remove. Like a indentation in wall all over.
I made mistake of using diy rollers, all.be it on my pro.extension pole. This takes too long. A Poly/wool mix holds more paint, limits the loading roller up with paint.
I would use a sanding pad on a extension pole ,.lightly prep walls to create.a.key.for.paint.
Zinser is a great product, but we only use on kitchen doors and tiles for bullet proof base coat. Although Zin 123, is a route for you ,but it ain't cheap.
Try doing a test patch ,with Sanding,.to make a key for paint, Then check to see it it's robust, and won't peel or chip off easily by physically abusing it abit. Lol

And just to check.... In terms of the roller - is there a specific roller head you'd recommend? Thanks again

 

[opps]

PVA splatters, I try to soak them for a couple of hours and then use a quality blade to scrape them off.

If you want a better quality finish on walls that were previously papered, then consider using lining paper. Walls that have ben papered tend to have residual glue. The glue tends to cause emulsions to craze. You could sand the paste away or use an enzyme based paste remover (eg Zinsser DIF).

Sanding away PVA drips often results in slight divots in the plaster. The PVA is "harder" than the surrounding area. I use Olfa blades. £30 for the tool but the blade quality is vastly superior to all of the other blades I have ever used. Once softened, even a cheap blade should suffice though.

With regards to painting over (waterbased) eggshell, a decent quality matt emulsion should be fine, with minimal prep (assuming that the old paint was relatively clean).

 

[Groovejet]

Can I check that I'm understanding....
1- The PVA you speak of is small areas of the wall that have glue stains that if painted directly on to would not allow the paint to "stick"?

2- The recommendation for sanding...is that in addition or instead of the Zinsser? And I'm thinking this should be done with a low count paper? (60?)

3- Sorry - I'm definitely not a professional! I don't mind too much the cost on the Zinsser. Yes it's expensi but if it'll solve all my problems and give me a long term solution I'm happy with it .

Sorry this is late reply.....
1- Yeh ....paint over ,from experience.....Using Silk especially. Will create unsightly ridges, and divets.
I had to do alot of work on these patches.
Light sanding.....Filled with light weight filler....sanded......Acrylic White emulsion.....then checked the condition again.....STILL LOOKED RUBBISH....sanded ...paint ..paint ...paint...lol
The plasterer musta done ceiling after walls. This is obviously wrong. Like painting! Always ceiling 1st.
My process, was over the top . Try soaking like post above says. But it was a difficult task.

2/3- I've always sanded to key the wall In ,so paint grabs propally. I select grade ,suitable ,by common sense. Bad wall= 80 grit.
Good wall = 120.
Zinser for me is for surfaces that need a bullet proof undercoat . Like kitchen door or tiles. Then your finish coat of gloss or whateva will stick like S#@t...lol. And will give a hard wearing ,long lasting solution.
I've never used for walls. And I k ow you can get Zinser in most colours, but it's not widely sold. I found online. That's why decorators use base coat of Zinser, then the choice of your finish coat. Most finishes, adhear great.
I wouldn't of thought it's economical to paint all walls with Zinser?
Good luck

 

[Groovejet]

Fyi? The option about lining walls is a great idea. A really great solution.

If you want a better quality finish on walls that were previously papered, then consider using lining paper. Walls that have ben papered tend to have residual glue.

 

[opps]

I wouldn't of thought it's economical to paint all walls with Zinser?

I have done whole rooms (walls) with tinted BIN in the past. The first time was for a regular customer who's room I had papered 7 years earlier. She wanted painted walls but done to the standard she expected from me and as quickly as possible. It cost (in today's money) £80 for 5L of tinted BIN and one day of labour. A 5l tin of emulsion would have cost about £40. To remove the paper and make good before rehanging lining paper would have turned it in to a 3 day job.

To be honest, I would not have been quite so happy to do it if the quality of the papering was questionable.

The finish is extremely durable though, on par with oil based eggshell on lining paper (which in itself is par more durable than waterbased eggshell).