ericmark
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  • Hi Eric Mark.
    You seem to have amazing knowledge about smart heating. I'd love some advice about splitting my house into 2 zones. I have an extension that I want to split off by plumbing, not using TRVs, so that it can trigger the boiler independently if needed but there's no water flowing into that area when it's off. Can you advise? Thanks! :)
    Hi Ericmark
    Quick question. Screwfix forum Seems to be “unavailable”
    Is that for everybody or just me?

    Thanks. TTC
    Hi, I hope you don't mind me asking you out of the blue-but I have seen some of your posts relating to Hive systems and would really be grateful if you could give me some advice?
    ericmark
    ericmark
    I use Nest, not saying best, I do wonder if Hive would have been better? However my knowledge is rather limited on Hive, just what I gathered when wondering if Hive or Nest
    Hi Eric
    In trying to further the idea of gathering information to help dating an installation, I wonder if you can help?
    I seem to remember a while back posting on a thread where you asked questions about when certain things changed. I think some of it was written in red.
    Can you remember?
    Was it you?
    Cheers,

    Simon
    ericmark
    ericmark
    I have also tried dating an installation, and other than the 1966 change in lighting earths and the colour change, it is not easy as so many upgrades and repairs muddy the water. I have BS 7671:2001 and 2008 but they don't really help, found some old on site guides, but again pre 1992 few seem to have followed the regulations. So can't really help.
    securespark
    securespark
    Thanks, Eric. Can you remember the thread I'm looking for?
    1)

    You said “The problem seems to be just two posters”]

    And who are those two, eric? If you want to claim that I am one I would point out that the "problems" I caused last week were objecting to the way that the Mods remove posts which are critical of Winston even when there is not a whiff of abuse in them, the way that they allow him to get away with rank hypocrisy and making vile, false accusation of lying.
    2)
    If the Mods didn’t support Winston in his belief that saying "you’re wrong" is an insult, there’d be no trouble. If they didn’t support him in pretending that telling people to ignore him is abusive whilst he happily tells people to ignore any advice which he thinks is wrong, there’d be no trouble. If they didn’t allow him to call people liars when what he means is "I think you’re wrong" there’d be no trouble.
    3)

    And if the prescribed methods for dealing with problems and making complaints according to the rules worked, then there would be no trouble. Trust me, I have tried, I have tried until I am blue in the face. I've tried emailing the admin address, and William Martin directly. I've tried PMing the Mods. Might as well howl at the moon.
    Eric, you mentioned that you have some old Lucas manuals - I work on classic car electrics, and if you're thinking of throwing them out I'd be glad to pay postage.
    Hi Eric, yes the timers going the correct way now,thanks for your help, thought id had to much 'red' last night, or i was going to start getting younger again;)
    when you say 'pressure' do you mean the immersion switch was 'on' and heating the water when the power cut happened?
    Eric, I hope you don't mind me emailing you, you seem to know what you are talking about. I would gratefully appreciate some advice if you have the time. I am leaving the Army after 22 yrs service. The MOD helps service leavers to resettle and by this funding courses for second careers. You only get one chance to get it right and I don't want to waste it. Can i send you a link of a training company that are offering electrician courses,they seem legitimate. I appreciate that it takes a long time to be fully qualified but just want to get on the right track and to be honest get a job at the end of it.

    Kind Regards

    Matt
    B
    hi eric i see your occupation is an electrician. can you look at my topic and see if you can help me with it. i have added more information and pictures to try to explain my situation better. I would also feel better taking advice from you knowing you are an electrician and you may have seen a problem like mine before at some point.
    Thanks.

    ps
    just learning the forum so i hope this msg in in the correct section.
    Hi TT earths ,

    I accept the risk of a bouncing neutral is small but it does happen, We had 3, possibly 4, serious bounces in 20 years and several minor ones at my last house. In this cottage there is a measurable difference between the CPC and the stone walls. And that is on a neutral less than 800 yards long. The DNO insisted I take great care to ensure the CPC in my cottage could not make any connection with the CPC in the adjacent shop which is TT and was previously the source of electricity to the cottage. One of their concerns is where a PME earth is bonded to metallic supply pipes. The chaps connecting my supply were a bit more open with information, Broken neutrals have resulted in burnt out bond wires in meter boxes when the metal supply pipe has a near zero impedance to ground ( or direct to the neutral at the substation ). On one estate the water mains were modified to include an isolating section.

    Regards

    Bernard
    Hi Eric

    The pain may be a result of a seasonal effect on the body. My medical contacts do include purely physical effects in their list of SAD related symptoms so JohnW2 is wrong to insist SAD only relates to psycological affects.

    A colleague of mine in the 1980's suffered with skin problems in winter and after consultation with his GP he found relief by using a sun lamp for a few hours a week. The mechanism was that his vitamin D levels dropped very low due to lack of sunlight during winter. Synthetic vitamin D reduced the problems but not completely but (it seems) his own vitamin D was effective. That said it may have involved other processes that depended on sunlight to function.

    Regards

    Bernard

    Hi

    I am not this posting on forum as it would be a dangerous thing for DIY people to hear. Tried to send it as message but it was rejected as we are "not friends"

    Rings versus Radials and calculations. I recall from my connections with the London Fire Brigade that the majority of electrical ignited fires were from over loaded junction boxes or ones with loose terminals. That is my main reason for preferring rings with their single fault tolerance including for lighting. I have seen a few burnt out sockets on radials but few on rings. Those on rings were mostly cheap plugs over heating. One on a radial was on an seldom used socket next to the front door. Vibration from the door was probably the cause of the terminal working loose.

    My connection with the Fire Brigade was when I designed the digital radio paging system for the LFB in 1970's. and had a lot of chats about fires and what causes them with the forensic fire investigators.

    An old electrician friend would always use rings for lights in thatched cottages because of the reduced risk of overheating joints and still recommended regular checks on the ceiling rose connections.

    When I look at the calculations for some systems I have to smile about the requirements for the impedance of the CPC where an RCD has be fitted. Based on them the RCD could not protect the human body from being shocked.

    Had an argument with a "qualified Part P electrician" last summer. He insisted that an RCD had to have a low impedence CPC through out the system otherwise the RCD could not operate. When I asked what was the point of an RCD for a two wire lead to a hedge trimmer where there was no CPC he had no explanation. I believe he knew the rules but had no idea of how things worked. He could not see the explaination that an impendance of 6000 ohms between live to any earth will trip an RCD at 35 mA and that the 1 ohm CPC is for tripping the overcurrent MCB on a live to CPC short.

    Regards

    Bernard
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