Recent content by Mike13

are they two bit from different makes of piping, they do not always interfit very well, make sure it is all made by one company, look closely at the molded in part numbers and logos to be sure.

well to me they look like perfect homes for wasps and mice, if they dont fill it with cement or something, you will need to look for proper stainless steel wool that is meant for diy car exhaust rebuilding and stuff it in all the exposed ends, dont buy the cheap china "stainless" it will rust...

I have a recently tiled roof, as in several years ago, it has those little clips holding the ridge tiles down, but exposed ends are cemented in. Check which tile it is and download the brochures about it from the manufacturers website, they will say how they expect it to be finished off, that...

Is it worthwhile to use a sealant/adhesive to buy some time till the better weather next year?

they are sandtoft 20/20, I have a single spare one that was being kept in the garden shed, the roof was done about 7 years ago.

Hi, as title, they are rectangular, black coated clay tiles for a 15 degree roof, I have just found one that has broken. Is it a big job to replace a single tile? it is out near the edge, so If I needed to lift the ones above them it would be about 30 tiles to lift or so. We noticed a small...

I have a mostly sandy soil on a significant slope, near the bottom of the garden we occasionally get springs popping out that come and go or move occasionally. A next door neighbour had it bad, planted some shrubs in a boggy bit and a few days later they had actually sunk deeper into the ground...

look on magic.defra.gov.uk for your postcode and find out what sort of soil you have in your area. It has a lot of geology options that take a while to find. If it is a deep clay bed area then your options are limited. the builders may have bought a lump of clay and thought it was acceptable...

hydraulic lime? purbek stone is almost a marble, not stewed under pressure for long enough, but almost there. So you might want a slightly weaker grout than the stone itself.

Even then stuff runs over or down the wall, better off using frost proof bricks in the first place, becomes a much simpler structure to maintain.

If you really think there is asbestos, keep it damp while you are removing it, much less dust that way, so a lot less airborne hazard.

the sand/cement render would keep the actual bricks damp, you need a breathable set of coating between bricks and room, for at least a year. You also need to keep it heated to give it a chance to dry out.

well where I live it is quite a free draining soil anyway, adding gravel in the 6" gap between wall and earth made sure it stayed that way. Agreed DPC is absolutely not required for an external wall.

gravel mixed with soil just behind the wall, the only sensible place for a dpc is above the highest soil line, and then it spoils the look of the wall. drain holes near the base are good, it would be a very clay soil to need every 500 mm. I have a sandy soil, and have never seen the drain holes...