1/4" dewalt or 1/2" triton router?

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Hi guys.

I need to buy a router, im going to need it for door hinge/lock mortises, kitchen worktops and creating tongue and groove out of 47mm thick c16 timber.

I originally wanted a 1/4" dewalt that runs off my 18v xr batteries for convenience, and the light weight for creating door hinge mortises if the linings have already been fitted, however ive read that 1/4" is too small for use with the kitchen worktop jigs, and i think it will be too small to create the tongue and groove.

So now im looking at the triton tra001. I used to own one but got rid of it years ago. I seem to remember it being a bit bigger than the dewalt, and the specs show it as a fair bit heavier.

My question...will the triton be suitable for mortising the door hinges if the linings have already been fitted? Or is it too much of a beast to lift up and operate on its side?

Thanks
 
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ive read that 1/4" is too small for use with the kitchen worktop jigs,
It is. Those require a full size, high power 1/2 inch router. Such as the Dewalt 625.

However that will be far too heavy and unwieldy to do smaller items like hinges, which would be better done with a much smaller and lighter machine.
 
OP,
As above but are you doing a couple of DIY one-off jobs or do you intend to use the machine for long term stuff?
If for one or two jobs then hire a big bad corded router.
 
I've had success routing worktops (though not using a jig) with a 1/4" Trend router. Just take multiple passes, not something a tradesman would do (time is money). The nice thing about Trend gear is they have loads of support and variable speed control for larger diameter bits, or routing in other material (I've routed in alminium with it on slowest speed, using wax and a dedicated bit).

Nozzle
 
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You need 2! A cheapy 'Katsu' for the hinge jobs and similar. The TRA001 for worktops and in the Router Table.
 
I need to buy a router, im going to need it for door hinge/lock mortises, kitchen worktops and creating tongue and groove out of 47mm thick c16 timber.
Door hinge recessing is a job for a small trim router (used freehand) or at most a 1/4in or 8mm plunge router with a template jig. It's not a job for a 1/2in router - too big heavy and bulky - even used with a jig

A trim router can be useful for doing the face plate recesses but TBH lock mortising isn't really a job for a router, at least not on single locks, where a tradesman who knows his stuff would simply use auger bits, chisels and a decent drill and do the job, and do it faster. Where I do need to chop out multiple locks I sometimes use a Souber DBB lock mortiser and a decent electric drill (750 watts and 3000 rpm - not cordless unless you can afford something like a Makita DHP481 heavy combi drill as it canes cordless stuff), but then that isn't a router

Kitchen worktops require a 1/2in plunge router with a minimum of 1400 watts and ideally more than 1800 watts. Even then it takes multiple passes.

If you want to machine T&G the best way is a spindle moulder (requires 2 cutter blocks) and a power feeder. A 1/2in router isn't a good way to do the job even when the material is just 25mm thick (about the limit for a 2000 watt router) - and in any case you'd need a router table to get any thing like the required accuracy. In any case quite apart from the fact that 47mm thick C16 is a structural timber and unlikely to be straight enough to actually make a acceptable T&G (you want straight and consistent you better start looking for a decent quality joinery grade redwood PSE) I do have to wonder why you'd want to make up such thick T&G. If you do need to join such thick material you'd probably be better off using a loose tongue (say 12mm plywood) in grooves - ideal tool is a spindle moulded plus a grooving block, or out on site a 1/2in variable speed router with a 1/2in arbor and a grooving cutter
 
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Sorry for the late reply ive been busy on the job.
I decided to bite the bullet and go for both routers, I think ill mainly be using the 1/4", and i like the idea of the dewalt and being able to walk around and use it away from plug sockets (cant stand cables). The triton will be used for bigger jobs i.e. the kitchen worktop and in a table.
 

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