12V extractor fan - fitting to mains socket in loft

Do you mean none of the sensor operated ones use a light switch to turn on, or all other types as well?
I mean no fan needs the light to switch it on. It is up to you how you wire it.

By the way, (to everyone), my bathroom doesn't suffer from damp, as I normally leave the window on the ventilation latch (it's a long, 1.5m wide by 25cm high uPVC opener at the top of the main, non-opening window), but I always fully open the window after having a shower and have to stand there for five or ten minutes while I wait for the air to circulate a bit. This is why I am going to fit an extractor fan, so I can just finish my shower and go to bed immediately.
Up to you.

I noticed that the microwave sensor fan I linked to above says the following:
"To be wired with standard twin and earth. Requires only 1 LIVE. No need for switchable live."
That means it is on all the time - waiting for the sensor to start it.
However, you could wire it with a switched live instead of permanent live - not saying you should - so that it can be switched off so that it doesn't come on when you don't want it to.

So presumably this will be even simpler for me to add to the lighting circuit.
Yes, presumably two wires to connect is easier than three.

I have read on comments on videos on Youtube that you do have to fit an isolation switch
They are wrong.

- I am in the U.K., are you talking about the U.K., EFLImpudence? I would always turn off all the electricity in the house whenever I do any electrical work anyway.
Yes, UK. The UK regulations do not call for local isolation for any appliance - not even the cooker.
 
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Brilliant, that's very helpful, EFLImpudence, it will be a lot easier for me if I don't have to fit an isolation switch, and I have an RCD consumer unit (I'm not sure if that is the correct term - my fusebox uses RCDs), so I think it will be safe.
 
Should I use the lighting circuit or a mains circuit? Or doesn't it make any difference?
 
Should I use the lighting circuit or a mains circuit?

They are both mains is as much as they are both 230 Volt circuits.

Lighting circuits are most commonly supplied from a 6 Amp MCB or fuse
Circuits for sockets ( power circuits ) are supplied by higher Amperage MCBs or fuses

There are people who believe that a 13 Amp socket being supplied from a lighting circuit is bad practice.
 
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Should I use the lighting circuit or a mains circuit? Or doesn't it make any difference?

the load of an extractor fan is round about the same as the load of a lightbulb, so a lighting circuit is perfectly correct.

One advantage of the lighting method is that it can be wired to come on with the bathroom light, and run on for 30 minutes or other convenient period after you have turned out the light and gone to bed. Some people have an aversion to ventilation and do not like turning extractor fans on.

A good modern fan with ball-bearing motor and rubber mounts will be very quiet, and inaudible when the door is shut.
 
Brilliant, that's very helpful, EFLImpudence, it will be a lot easier for me if I don't have to fit an isolation switch, and I have an RCD consumer unit (I'm not sure if that is the correct term - my fusebox uses RCDs), so I think it will be safe.
You were right the first time, consumer unit. A fuse box has fuses, you do not have one.
 
I always use a headlamp, I'd rather use that than risk an electric shock. I tried to change a light in my previous house and had turned off the RCD for the lighting circuit - but I got an electric shock from the ceiling light cable - whoever wired the house had obviously done something wrong, so I'm not risking that again.
I will wire it to the bathroom light circuit, then I can decide whether I want the fan to be on or not in the daytime by just pulling the light switch on and off.
 
I've fitted the fan, a 240v pull cord operated one, from Blauberg. I almost didn't fit an extractor fan at all today because I thought that the space between the underside of the roof and a horizontal beam just behind the eaves was too narrow to get my insulated ducting through, but as it was the final foot or so, I just cut the insulation off that part of the ducting and pulled it through from outside, and had no problems. I connected the extractor fan to the bathroom ceiling light cables, it's mounted about a foot away from the light, so it was easy to do. I didn't bother with an isolation switch. I figure that I am going to live in this house until I die, and therefore it's no problem for me to turn off the lighting circuit if/when I ever want to change the fan. (Actually I turn off everything at the consumer unit via the main switch whenever I do anything involving electrics in the house. I don't trust whoever wired the house and it's never been a problem. I only turned off the electricity for about five minutes to wire in the fan today, so no problem.) I used a 100mm pipe and pipe adaptor (see one of my other posts about this) to slip over the top of the fan, otherwise it's impossible to get the ducting on, it's much easier this way anyway, because you can slide the ducting over just the pipe adaptor, which you can hold any way you like (unlike the fan, which is obviously mounted in the ceiling below at this point) and then put a cable tie around it, slide it into the 100mm pipe, and then slide the 100mm pipe over the top of the fan, and that's it, finished.
Adding an isolation switch would have been a lot of extra work and it's totally unnecessary in my opinion. I would always use a headlight when trying to fit electric cables into a fan anyway, I wear glasses and the extra light helps me.
 
Adding an isolation switch would have been a lot of extra work and it's totally unnecessary in my opinion.

If the fan develops a fault that causes a protective device ( MCB or RCD ) to operate and remove power to the lighting circuit then you will have no lights until you disconnect the defective fan from the lighting circuit.

An isolating switch will enable the protective device to be reset and the lighting supply restored without the need to first disconnect the wiring to the fan.
 
All very true of course. The same applies to every light fitting on the circuit as well but no one suggests fitting an isolator on every light.
 
If the fan develops a fault that causes a protective device ( MCB or RCD ) to operate and remove power to the lighting circuit then you will have no lights until you disconnect the defective fan from the lighting circuit.

An isolating switch will enable the protective device to be reset and the lighting supply restored without the need to first disconnect the wiring to the fan.

The time taken to fit an isolating switch is about a thousand times the time it takes me to put a headlamp on. Then I go into the loft and detach the fan wires from the bathroom light, using my headlamp. I got an electric shock in a previous house after allegedly turning off the lighting circuit, to change a light fitting in a kitchen - somebody had wired the lighting circuit incorrectly, or at least, it didn't match up with what was on the consumer unit, so from then on I always, ALWAYS, turn off ALL the electricity at the consumer unit, whenever I am doing anything electrical. That way I know I am completely safe and don't have to trust that whoever wired everything in the house did it correctly. In my opinion, adding an isolating switch to this fan would have made the job take twice as long for no real benefit. I really don't see the problem if the fan makes the entire lighting circuit go off, I use a headlamp every day for lots of things, it's no big deal for me to use it.
 
I use a headlamp every day for lots of things, it's no big deal for me to use it.

Are you saying that if the lights went out at 2 in the morning you have all the kit ( headlamp etc. etc.) to hand and you can get the lights back on in a few minutes. Suppose it trips when you are not at home. Who would then go up into the loft to disconnect the fan,
 

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