1800s house damp

thank you.
So much to think about, and not enough time in the day!!!
I will defintely look into the trade paint you mention, and will be posting onto the section too!
If lime plaster has not been used already, and the higher ground is rectified, is matching the already used plaster type good enough?
The walls that are done in this plaster do not all show signs of damp, and therefore I assume that this isn't causing a problem.
 
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an 1800 house will have been built with lime, so you would probably be matching the original.
 
I am not sure it is the original plaster, although the lath is still there it is not original lath, but the sawn lath.
The previous owner has suggested that his parents may have replastered it in the 30s... (but then he said he thought it was built in the 30s?!?!?!) :confused: :confused: :confused:
I have posted in the plastering section, and awaiting response.
Thanks again this has been so useful, just not sure my builder will be too chuffed having his job completely changed about 3 weeks before he's due to start!!!
 
So spoke to builder last night, he made a very valid point re high ground level - were not sure we could actually fit in the gap between the houses to lower it, it is only as wide as someone is wide, so dependent on ground type we made be stuck with it...
If that's the case, I'm assuming we have no choice but dpc floor and walls.
 
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So spoke to builder last night, he made a very valid point re high ground level - were not sure we could actually fit in the gap between the houses to lower it, it is only as wide as someone is wide, so dependent on ground type we made be stuck with it...
If that's the case, I'm assuming we have no choice but dpc floor and walls.

Get a new builder. you'll just mask the problem for a few years then it will spread. Not to mention the damage you'll cause to the walls.

Lime render/lime everything, lower ground levels, job done.
 
It' all very well to say to get a new builder, but if you can't fit in the gap even with a spade to dig out the higher ground how is a different builder going to solve that? If we can't remove the higher ground, what choice do we have but put in a damp proof course?
And also, for all you know there is no way we could afford to lime plaster everything - it's expensive, so it's very unhelpful to just say that and not come up with anything else constructive we could do.
 
It' all very well to say to get a new builder, but if you can't fit in the gap even with a spade to dig out the higher ground how is a different builder going to solve that? If we can't remove the higher ground, what choice do we have but put in a damp proof course?
And also, for all you know there is no way we could afford to lime plaster everything - it's expensive, so it's very unhelpful to just say that and not come up with anything else constructive we could do.

You said it was 'man wide'. Lime plaster does cost more, however if you sort out the ground levels you'll save money on not needing some snake magic dpc/tanking etc, that would more than pay to have it done properly.

I'm going though the same thing myself. you need to leave the brick/stone exposed for a while to dry out properly once the ground level is sorted anyway, a good year or more.

Its always cheaper to do it right once. I'm sure a commited builder would work out how to alter the levels. Have you asked about pulling some earth back? A narrow digger bucket from a 90deg angle?
 
for a start, you could dig a pit at each end of this gap, to lower the local water table.

Is it a sort of too-narrow alley between two adjacent buildings? Are there gutters on the buildings above? What are the dimensions of this gap?

It is quite difficult to rake rubbish and mortar out of a cavity wall, but it can be done.
 
Yes John, its a too-narrow gap between the 2 houses. There is guttering on ours, though will need to be sorted as not great condition.
The neighbours have cemented a drain channel in part of this gap. It drains into main drainage. - will this help? It is this drainage channel that our builder is most concerned about removing, as no idea what / how it's been constructed. I would willingly go in there with a trowel and dig it out if needed, but I wouldn't get through the cement, and not even sure that I'd fit whilst operating a trowel.
So, if we could get neighbours to agree two holes at the ends of the alley would suffice?
If the neighbours do not permit us to do this, or access to it (I am hoping they will, as they seem reasonable so far...)
I would love to expose the stone, and have it repointed. Would this be cheaper than lime plaster. Been told 50-100£ per sq m for lime plaster.
 
Are there gutters on the buildings above? What are the dimensions of this gap?
 
JohnD
Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 5:51 pm Post Subject:
Are there gutters on the buildings above? What are the dimensions of this gap?
I'm not there at the minute,
There are gutters on ours, not 100% about theirs, but pretty confident there are.
Gap is about 30-40cm wide (at a guess)
 
Debbie, as that gap is so narrow, how did the neighbours manage to cement in the drainage channel?
My thoughts are that it wouldn't be particularly well formed and could maybe be broken up with a mattock or similar tool.
It's pretty important to get that stuff out, somehow!
John :)
 
They have since built a fence next to it! Half if it used to be open. It isn't anymore.
John, it's prob about 12-15m long
 
Could we trouble you for photos, Debbie? We need to see the actual gap,and the part that the fence plays for the access.
John :)
 

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