2 Way Wiring Problem

I haven't tried using nail scissors as wire cutters but I have used wire cutters as nail scissors and found them to be highly effective. Makes me wonder if the reverse is true.

I have stripped wire with my teeth and that sort of works. It's not as good as a decent pair of strippers and I certainly can't chew through either the inner or outer insulation of T&E.

I have never found a stand-in for a multimeter. Indeed, mine is usually in arms reach. I might disagree somewhat with the notion that the OP should take German lessons before selecting a meter. Just type "multimeter" into a well-known Internet search engine. For DIY, one generally only needs to be accurate to the nearest hundred volts. Indeed, I've happily done digital electronics with a £4.99 DMM, where one likes to be accurate to the nearest Volt or so.

One accessory II would definitely get though is a set of probes with croc clips on the end. Saves a hole world of pain.
 
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I have stripped wire with my teeth and that sort of works. It's not as good as a decent pair of strippers and I certainly can't chew through either the inner or outer insulation of T&E.
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I might disagree somewhat with the notion that the OP should take German lessons before selecting a meter.
It is a PITA that the blurb is hard to find in English - it looks like a good set of kit. I've got installation testers by the same maker and the instructions are in English.


Just type "multimeter" into a well-known Internet search engine. For DIY, one generally only needs to be accurate to the nearest hundred volts. Indeed, I've happily done digital electronics with a £4.99 DMM, where one likes to be accurate to the nearest Volt or so.
For LV work, as opposed to the ELV in digital electronics, you do need a good assurance of safety. I'd not trust one that cheap.



One accessory II would definitely get though is a set of probes with croc clips on the end. Saves a hole world of pain.
Indeed. Note though that a good, safe pair of such leads will cost more than your cheap multimeter.

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=tester+crocodile+clip+leads+gs38
 
I've changed the switch, as suggested above - it works BUT now the other one doesn't, eek!
 
Without changing a thing, thought I'd switch it on again & now neither switch works?!
 
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Without changing a thing, thought I'd switch it on again & now neither switch works?!

Well, that sounds like a bad connection, check the terminals, as it could just be that you've made a dud connection when changing the switch over.

I would buy a multimeter, then you can test out the switches and cables and be sure that they are all doing what you think they should be doing.

It will also help to troubleshoot if you think about the theory of operation. What switches do, and how the wires connect everything together. That will help work out how to test things to ensure they're doing what they should be doing.

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/diy/electrics/light_fitting/two_way_harmonised.jpg

This diagram shows exactly the setup you have. Ignore the colours while thinking about how it works, the important bit is the connections and how a switch works. Traditionally a switch has two states, on and off but what it really means inside the switch is that in one position the switch makes a connection between com and L1 and in the other position it makes a connection between com and L2.

Remember that there needs to be a path for the current to flow in order for the lamp to light, so have a think about how the lamp would (or would not) operate with the switches in different positions.
 
I have bought a digital multimeter, can anyone guide me on what to do now please, it has a red lead & a black one. Thanks
 
The light does occasionally work, so it's a safe bet that the red+black is working fine. So take the three (red, blue & yellow wires at one end and place them in a single terminal on the switch. At the other end, use the multimeter to test for continuity between each of the three cables in pairs.
 
Made a discovery but don't know if it helps?:
with rocker switch pressed in at bottom - nothing at either switch BUT
with rocker switch pressed in at top - lights come on and will switch off at
2nd switch
 
suey - I don't think you really understand how it works.
With two switches there are four positions.

Pushed in at top = OFF
Pushed in at bottom = ON

...................1........2.......3........4
Switch 1 ... OFF ... ON ... ON ... OFF
Switch 2 ... OFF ... OFF... ON ... ON


Is the light on or off with each of those?
 
Made a discovery but don't know if it helps?:
with rocker switch pressed in at bottom - nothing at either switch BUT
with rocker switch pressed in at top - lights come on and will switch off at
2nd switch
Somewhere between having the old switches installed and everything working fine, and now, you've either broken a wire or a switch, or got the wires muddled up.

There really is only Plan A or Plan B.

PLAN A:PLAN B:
  • Get an electrician.
 
Made a discovery but don't know if it helps?:
with rocker switch pressed in at bottom - nothing at either switch BUT
with rocker switch pressed in at top - lights come on and will switch off at
2nd switch
If I understand you correctly, that sounds like possibly correct behaviour!

What happens if you:
1...press rocker in at top (lights come on)
then 2....switch lights off at second switch (lights go off)
then 3...go back to first switch and press in at bottom
??

Kind Regards, John
 

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