25' deck

id still do it with posts, a lot simpler and more accurate as you can get the levels spot on. I know a lot of people speak about the pros and cons of using wooden posts in the ground, but if they are pressure treated and properly concreted in they should last as long as the deck.
 
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as i want the deck level with my patio doors which is roughly about 8 inches off the ground so it seemed the best way would be to lay the frame onto slabs.
:?:
I'm a little puzzled now Paddy1 as you said you were going to toenail your 6x2" joists on top of the frame. Even if you also frame with 6x2" then you need at least 12" + the thickness of the deck boards from the top of the slabs to the bottom of your patio doors?

If you only have 8" to play with you will need to set your joists flush to the top of the frame.
 
I have some pictures I can send you of the two decks showing the detail through the various stages of construction which I built last year.
If you want to me to send them to you email me @ :- [email protected] ( please make sure the title is clear or it'll get deleted as spam...)
 
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nice deck.
I'm a little unsure as to the way your posts are.
I'm assuming they are 4X4's?
It looks like you have cut away the post to allow your beam to sit into it rather than being just bolted on to the side of it. Is this a fair assumption?
Is that not a lot of unnecessary work?
 
Thanks.

Yes they are 4x4's and I have slotted the 8x2" beams into the posts.

It is quite a bit more work to do it this way but is the only way I'd recommend if using a single beam. It's not a good idea to have a single beam bolted to one side of a supporting post as it generates side loads on the post and footings and the strength of both the post (grain) and footing is for vertical loads.

It's actually more usual to use two beams bolted either side of the post (and much quicker) but, given the amount of posts I used (24) and beams (8), doubling up would have been totally unnecessary ... Besides, I like carpentry, it's easy enough if you have the right tools and was much easier to assemble working on my own than side hung beams would have been.
 
Mine is about 5 metres wide and 4m deep. One edge is against the house. I used "Thunderbolts" (bolts that grip into brick without using a plug) to put a 6x2 joist against the house under the level of the dpc of course.

I then got two posts (i think they are 6"x6") for the opposite corners, measured them out using a 3-4-5 triangle to make sure they were perfectly positioned and concreted them in to about 18" depth.

Then I put the front edge on and also the two sides. The two sides attached to the batten along the house using joist hangers. So basically I had made a perfect rectangle.

Then I cut a shedload of noggins that were 14" long. If you get a chopsaw with an end fence this is way fast to do. With 14" noggins you get 16" joist centres (I used 6x2 joists). I think from memory I concreted in a post every 32" or so and bolted the nearest joist to it using coachbolts.

I then laid my deckboards at 45 degrees on them which looks pretty cool.

This was the result of a fair bit of searching around on the Internet, and two years later and after a lot of foot traffic, it is in perfect condition.

Over-engineering it is the best way to go. I am not a big guy (only 12st), but if i jump on mine, it just makes a dull thud, there is no echo and definitely no bounce. We have had parties where we have had lots standing on it, and there has been no movement at all.
 
If anyone has seen megawatts pictures of his deck, i was hoping to do similar with the edging.

my deck is about 10" above the ground so i want to hide this gap and tidy the edge of the deck.

I am curious as to what you are attaching your horizontal edging to when you have your posts inset from the edge of the deck.

I also have a slight problem in that my deck runs slightly off square due to the fact that one of the walls of the house is not runnning square and i have my deck tight to a fence which also does not run square.
I want to trim my boards so that the edge looks square ant then attach the trim to cover the gap.

Whats the best way to do this???


Thanks for any help at all.
 
just answered the question on the other question you posed about the same subject with less info on!
 

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