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For tiling a cheap laser is a huge benefit e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-qu...ross-line-laser-level/4708x?_requestid=365850 It's easy to scan round a room and get the level and also the verticals.
When planning tiles you want to aim for equal cuts to the corners and avoid little slivers.
Y. For backbuttering you just wipe the back of the tile with a thin layer of adhesive - often just filling up any embossed pattern on the back and then apply adhesive to the wall as normal. For me it just ensures a good grab.
Personally I wouldn't be tiling to ply in a bathroom. Plywood is not totally stable with changes in humidity e.g. https://www.performancepanels.com/dimensional-stability-flatness - the 1/10th to 1/20th inch expansion/contraction mentioned here for an 8x4 panel may not sound much, but it's enough to break the grout. If possible use a cement based board instead like hardiebacker https://www.jameshardie.co.uk/en/tile-backerboard/hardiebacker (try not to buy it at e.g. the big yellow shed - its expensive there)
When planning tiles you want to aim for equal cuts to the corners and avoid little slivers.
Y. For backbuttering you just wipe the back of the tile with a thin layer of adhesive - often just filling up any embossed pattern on the back and then apply adhesive to the wall as normal. For me it just ensures a good grab.
Personally I wouldn't be tiling to ply in a bathroom. Plywood is not totally stable with changes in humidity e.g. https://www.performancepanels.com/dimensional-stability-flatness - the 1/10th to 1/20th inch expansion/contraction mentioned here for an 8x4 panel may not sound much, but it's enough to break the grout. If possible use a cement based board instead like hardiebacker https://www.jameshardie.co.uk/en/tile-backerboard/hardiebacker (try not to buy it at e.g. the big yellow shed - its expensive there)