Acceptable?

[Jadele]

Hi All.

Quick question. I am looking at some cabinets (see pic )which are currently fed via greg bank. From the greg bank a 1.5mm t&e is plugged in (pink plug) and goes into the first unit and then through the top of each of the other units. In the top of each unit the 1.5 is split via a junctionbox and from the junction box (shown in Blue) a feed cable for 4 down lights on 0.75mm flex comes out and a feed cable for what looks like 0.75mm flex with moulded plug to connect a strip light.
The greg bank is protected by a C10 breaker.
The units are not movable and are screwed together. All the cable is concealed within the unit. Is this acceptable?

PS the picture is only representative all the wires and JB's are in the units and can't be seen.

Thanks

 

[omega015]

I had a lot more questions / things to say, but it depends on this part below:

Might be daft question but what's a "greg bank"? (never heard that term before).

 

[Jadele]

Plug in Ceiling Roses and a Lighting Distribution Box to suit

 

[Jadele]

 

[omega015]

Is that already in place? Seems a bit overkill/industrial if not. Is there a power switch for that bank or only the mcb? Also what are the ratings of the downlights and power strips?

 

[ericmark]

It seem all the option are in the Hager PDF on the Klik plug in lighting system however I would say these are designed for commercial premises.

 

[Jadele]

Yes it's a mill so very industrial. The sectional areas though are light commercial type. This is just one area. The average draw per area is around 4 amps. The down lights are watt with 13 watt side lights but overall it's about 4 amp total draw. Industrial or not though would not really affect the suitability unless we are talking about the C type and even then there is no fixed rule.

 

[ericmark]

Sorry got called away while writing, The Klik units are rated 6A, although likely they can take well over 6A for a commercial unit you should really follow the rules. I have had problems myself with a 16A MCB with lights, the bulb welded it's self to the holder, I think the C10 is not the way to go, stick with B6 MCB's, the main idea of the plug in system is so you can swap units and not disrupt the work, so one could unplug remove the assembly either replace as complete assembly or take it to workshop repair and then replace original and no production is lost.

Of course as the responsible person you can do anything which you feel you can justify to management or court of law if it goes wrong. There seems not to be anything which would likely come back and bite you, but I personally would not do it that way.

 

[Jadele]

Hi Eric. Thanks for the reply. Its like that now so I am just getting opinion. Do you mean the Klik Plugs are only rated at 6 amp? The main issue I was thinking of is the lower guage wiring coming off the 1.5 backbone. I know its a short run and no real different to a spur but seems wrong but I can't really think of a better way to do it that wouldn't cost a fortune.

 

[333rocky333]

I had a lot more questions / things to say, but it depends on this part below:

Might be daft question but what's a "greg bank"? (never heard that term before).

"Greg roses" I recall seized being made in the 70's I think they were round and similar pin layout to the old 5amp sockets, the plug plugged in and there was an outer screw on cover, theres been a few similar designs since, most common now is the "Klik" one shown.

There ideal for shopfitting by putting above the false ceiling.
Its quite common to see 20 amp supplies to each then plug in flexes branch off to the fittings, 3 pin/cores for normal and 4 pin/cores for emergencies.

However I think the original idea was that the fittings plugged in, each have ther own lower rated fuse internally.
But nowadays, due to these boxes we find a lot of unfused fittings and downlight transformers backed up by an overated supply fuse

 

[333rocky333]

Hi Eric. Thanks for the reply. Its like that now so I am just getting opinion. Do you mean the Klik Plugs are only rated at 6 amp? The main issue I was thinking of is the lower guage wiring coming off the 1.5 backbone. I know its a short run and no real different to a spur but seems wrong but I can't really think of a better way to do it that wouldn't cost a fortune.

If you have KLIK then the output plugs are 6amp each, they are not designed to take T and E cable either.
There is ample connections inside to connect a 1.5 cable and as the unit has a 10 amp supply I dont see a problem
Maybe change the first J/B to a fcu and fuse down there to 6 amp

 

[seasickstevie]

Like omega015, I've never heard the term "greg bank". Although I have used the system myself, and have wondered what the colloquial term for them is.

Just curious, where does the name come from? Just googled it, but none came up.

 

[Jadele]

thanks rocky that sound positive.

@Stevie - I don't know where it came from mate its just what I was introduced to them as and then it stuck, it must be an old term I guess. Here is a link on amazon where someone uses it in quotes https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crabtree-Ceiling-Luminaire-Supporting-Coupling/dp/B00M566HWC