ADDING NEW BATHROOM EXTRACTOR FAN

[spiderman]

WANT TO ADD EXTRACTOR FAN TO BATHROOM; TO WORK OFF EXISTING PULL CORD.

WHERE DO THE THREE WIRES FROM THE EXTRACTOR FAN GO??

CAN I USE EXISTING CEILING ROSE, AND/OR GO THROUGH A FUSED SPUR?

NEED DIAGRAM OF WHERE THE THREE FAN WIRES GO.

BLUE: NEUTRAL
YELLOW: SWITCHED LIVE
RED: PERMANENT LIVE

 

[masona]

Isn't the wiring diagram on the instruction ?

 

[spiderman]

INSTUCTIONS NOT VERY CLEAR
FROM FAN:
BLUE TO NEUTRAL IN FUSED SPUR LOAD
YELLOW TO LIVE IN FUSED SPUR LOAD
RED TO PERMANENT LIVE

FROM SWITCH ???
RED TO WHERE?
BLACK TO WHERE?

I DO NOT WANT THE FAN TO STAY ON AFTER LIGHT IS TURNED OFF, SO DO I STILL NEED TO USE THE PERMANENT LIVE??

 

[supersparks]

1) PLEASE FIND THE CAPS LOCK KEY, IT IS LOCATED AT THE LEFT OF YOUR KEY BOARD, IF YOU USE CAPS ON A FORUM IT INDICATES SHOUTING! I DONT THINK YOU ARE SHOUTING?

2) if you dont want the fan to stay on why did you buy a timer fan? you may need to change it as it may not work without the live connected, but give it a go, yellow to L load out blue to N load out in the fused conn unit, put red in a terminal block, earth goes to the uninsulated brass terminal.
connects a piece of t&e into the fcu, red to L supply black to N supply run this to the ceiling rose, red to loop, black to N

and dont forget to connect all the earths

SS

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Provided you wire it with 1mm or 1.5mm cable you will not need an FCU.

You will however need a 3-pole fan isolation switch which will go somewhere in the 3 core (red/blue/yellow) cable that you will be running to the fan.

As to using the ceiling rose, it depends. Do you have a loop-in lighting system, or a junction box system?

When you remove the cover from the ceiling rose, do you see something that looks like one of these:

Loop system

or this:

Junction box system



If these diagrams of how lighting circuits work don't explain to you which is neutral, live and switched live then it'd probably be best to wait until you've come back with the info as to which you have rather than present you with multiple options. [Note to fellow helpers - I'm going to be out for the rest of the day, so if spiderman gets back, feel free to dive in....]

You will need enough cable to run from the ceiling rose, or its junction box, to the isolation switch and back to the fan. You will need to decide on where you'll put the isolation switch - it must be in Zone 3 or outside the zones - see this for an explanation of what the zones are. I take it that you have checked that the fan is suitable for the location where you want to fit it?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies
I must not take so long composing my replies

Spiderman - if you need a fan in your bathroom to clear away steam then you almost certainly do want it to run on after the light is turned off....

 

[supersparks]

he isn't going to use 3 core bas, just switched live and neutral, so he can use a fused spur or 2 pole isolator, also he should use a fcu if his lighting is 10amp

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ah - but I was replying to his Q about how to connect permanent live, switched live and neutral, i.e. 3 cores, as that was before he broke the news that although he'd bought a fan with timed overrun he didn't actually want that functionality.....

Presumably an FCU isn't needed on a 10A lighting circuit if you use 1.5mm?

 

[supersparks]

Presumably an FCU isn't needed on a 10A lighitng circuit if you use 1.5mm?
i would say its just good practice