Do both valve springs look the same ?
They should be identical. One of your splendid videos of them would be great.
John
They should be identical. One of your splendid videos of them would be great.
John
Advice for non starting mower
- Thread starter ipbr21054
- Start date
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Brilliant! Great video.
Check out the lower of the two valves....is the spring well secured?
Another thing, can you pull the exhaust valve up, out of it's seating?
John
Check out the lower of the two valves....is the spring well secured?
Another thing, can you pull the exhaust valve up, out of it's seating?
John
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Very curious and interesting indeed!
I can only conclude that there is a decompressor (valve lifting) system used on this engine, as per LITL's suggestion though I have never come across this on an engine so small. I can't think of anything else - do the valves perform correctly when the motor is turned in the normal direction of rotation?
Everything else seems to be just fine, but that valve operation is incorrect.
Unfortunately to access the camshaft the engine has to be removed from the cutter deck, involving removing the blade and it's boss first, and then inverting the engine to get the crankcase lower part off.
Are you going to bash on?
John
I can only conclude that there is a decompressor (valve lifting) system used on this engine, as per LITL's suggestion though I have never come across this on an engine so small. I can't think of anything else - do the valves perform correctly when the motor is turned in the normal direction of rotation?
Everything else seems to be just fine, but that valve operation is incorrect.
Unfortunately to access the camshaft the engine has to be removed from the cutter deck, involving removing the blade and it's boss first, and then inverting the engine to get the crankcase lower part off.
Are you going to bash on?
John
Turning the engine one direction gives the clicking sound. Turn the engine in the opposite direction then there is no sound.
Looking at the exhaust valve in question would you say this is why the compression is low causing it to then not start ?
I ask as when looking at the video & also the mower and turning the engine over I see the valve close. My problem that I see is the valve not opening fully.
I was given this mower & don’t mind taking it apart but just wondering if my issue is actually inside the crankcase.
I mean as opposed to just looking for the clicking issue is my fix going to be there ?
Looking at the exhaust valve in question would you say this is why the compression is low causing it to then not start ?
I ask as when looking at the video & also the mower and turning the engine over I see the valve close. My problem that I see is the valve not opening fully.
I was given this mower & don’t mind taking it apart but just wondering if my issue is actually inside the crankcase.
I mean as opposed to just looking for the clicking issue is my fix going to be there ?
For reasons unknown to me at this time, the exhaust valve is opening once as it should and then again immediately afterwards.
Turn the engine only in the intended direction of rotation, if you will and see if it's the same.
I think Mr. Chibs would be referring to a carburettor gasket as cylinder head gaskets need to be made from more substantial material - which is often an aluminium / asbestos / aluminium composite sandwich.
John
Turn the engine only in the intended direction of rotation, if you will and see if it's the same.
I think Mr. Chibs would be referring to a carburettor gasket as cylinder head gaskets need to be made from more substantial material - which is often an aluminium / asbestos / aluminium composite sandwich.
John
Engine out & now draining oil.
Need to pop out so will be good for oil to drain properly.
Do i need a gaskey for the sump or can i use silicone gasket etc.
Trying to now keep the cost down should it not work.
I will pick up reply once out & send photos of inside crankcase in a few hours
Need to pop out so will be good for oil to drain properly.
Do i need a gaskey for the sump or can i use silicone gasket etc.
Trying to now keep the cost down should it not work.
I will pick up reply once out & send photos of inside crankcase in a few hours
There would normally be a paper type gasket between the sump faces - try to save it if you can but silicone gasket will do.
One point.....make sure the end of the crankshaft is perfectly clean and preferably polished with wet and dry paper before withdrawing it through the sump - this prevents potential damage to the oil seal in there.
You should find the crankshaft and camshaft gears have timing marks to allow for correct reassembly - check them out and see that they realign.
John
One point.....make sure the end of the crankshaft is perfectly clean and preferably polished with wet and dry paper before withdrawing it through the sump - this prevents potential damage to the oil seal in there.
You should find the crankshaft and camshaft gears have timing marks to allow for correct reassembly - check them out and see that they realign.
John
Is the end of the crankshaft flared out at all, or even possibly bent?
It needs to be completely parallel to fit through the bushing and oil seal.
John
It needs to be completely parallel to fit through the bushing and oil seal.
John
Ok,
Ive cleaned it up & now its off.
Nothing broken inside the case.
I removed the springs / valves & valve seats are intact so ive put them back now.
I then cleaned & fitted the 2 valve tappets,things like from a trumpet etc.
Nothing broken on the plastic cam gear either.
I rotated the crank & placed the plastic cam into place so the 2 dots on the cam / crank gear line up.
Ive attached 2 photos for you.
There is a cogged wheel which must i assume sit ontop the cam & held in place when i put the cover back on, is that correct like how i have it ?
Ive cleaned it up & now its off.
Nothing broken inside the case.
I removed the springs / valves & valve seats are intact so ive put them back now.
I then cleaned & fitted the 2 valve tappets,things like from a trumpet etc.
Nothing broken on the plastic cam gear either.
I rotated the crank & placed the plastic cam into place so the 2 dots on the cam / crank gear line up.
Ive attached 2 photos for you.
There is a cogged wheel which must i assume sit ontop the cam & held in place when i put the cover back on, is that correct like how i have it ?
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