Advice on best product to paint on wooden window frames

[JohnD]

Well, without wishing to rush into things, I started today. Bit of a prob with a rotted sill that won't come out (see "Windows and Doors") but on the sound wood the appearance is so far good. It's brought out the colour and figuring, and left a low sheen. Looks a bit like a thin varnish. The very weathered timber, which I had rubbed down, has just gone very dark. I also put it on some new oriental Oak trim, which isn't very attractive.

I used raw linseed oil in the end, and have started with the dilute applications.

 

[JohnD]

Well, I have applied 6 thinned coats of Linseed oil so far.

Today I noticed that the oil does not seem to be soaking in so well, some of last night's treatment seems to be remaining on the surface in spots like beads of sweat on the new boards. A couple of new boards in Oak are worse, it seems to have collected thicker at the "downhill" edge and dried to a crinkly tear, and the rest of the surface is still wet, but bitty.

Does this mean the timber has soaked up oil to capacity, or is it because of the hot sunny weather? I have been applying with a brush not a rag.

 

[biffvernon]

Six coats! I only use one coat of oil before painting with linseed oil paint. That's just enough to stop the wood absorbing too much oil from the paint leaving a film with too much pigment and not enough binder.

I suggest you get a rag and rub off as much oil as possible, then wait several days before giving it a rub down with very fine abrasive - one of those grey foam 'wet and dry' pads used dry is good - then paint.

 

[JohnD]

But I don't want to paint it! I just want an oiled finish!

 

[biffvernon]

In which case just sit back and enjoy the sunshine. Give it another coat of oil in a couple of years.

 

[Avignonaddict]

I live in the south of France and need to treat my wooden window frames. I'd like to use linseed oil, perhaps diluted wth turps (a mixture I used to treat terracotta tiles successfully) or white spirit, as suggested by someone in this thread. However a US site warns that linseed oil can turn black in UV light - we have full sun on four of the windows for most of each day; should I use something else, and if so, what would you recommend? Thanks

 

[oilman]

I live in the south of France and need to treat my wooden window frames. I'd like to use linseed oil, perhaps diluted wth turps (a mixture I used to treat terracotta tiles successfully) or white spirit, as suggested by someone in this thread. However a US site warns that linseed oil can turn black in UV light - we have full sun on four of the windows for most of each day; should I use something else, and if so, what would you recommend? Thanks

Never mind, back to the topic, for outside I have found an improvement on oil is to use a bees wax and oil mix. To make it, melt some wax, and then pour in warmed oil (about 4 or 5 times the amount of wax) let it cool then use as furniture wax. Give it a couple of coats. My outside sills DO NOT go black, so I don't understand the American problem.

 

[hilti68]

About 5 years ago we had a new h/wood porch built to replace an old existing one which had become dilapidated. Our home was built in 1898 and we wanted to finish it in really nice paint so we saved up and bought some lovely Farrow & ball paint, primer, sealer and it was applied as per their factory instructions - it is without doubt THE WORST PAINT I HAVE EVER USED !!!

Five years on it is cracked & peeling and looks just awful so this summer I've started refinishing it but have decided to try making my own paints this time around.

Its a right pain getting the remains of the old paint off, using a heat gun & bladed scraper but once I've got a section down to bare wood I give it a light sanding then start painting.

For undercoat/sealer I am using teak oil mixed with artists Titanium White oil paint. The mix is very watery but it soaks into the bare timber excellently. I use about 2 or 3 coats. As a mix it is so watery it doesn't impart much 'colour' but as each coat soaks in & dries it gets a little more 'whiter'

After these three coats have each been applied I switch to Titanium White mixed with Danish Oil. On the 'undercoated' teak oil it applies very well and takes 2, maybe 3 coats to achieve a similar finish to commercial paints. As Danish Oil is quite grey in colour the finish is a lovely warm white like a very pale cream/off white and is a perfect match to our home.

When it rains, the rain just beads onto the newly painted ledge like water on a freshly waxed car. I can't yet comment on longevity of the finish but so far I am much more impressed than the F&B paint and other commercial paints I have used.

From now on I will work around our home removing old commercial oil paint finishes which are not standing up well to the weather we get and replacing/refinishing with my 'newly found' paint finishes.

Its amazing what you find recipe-wise for traditional paints when searching the net and will not waste money again on commercial oil paint finishes when coloured oils are both better for the wood and give a better finish

 

[JohnD]

We've had two sunny days this week, and as mine needs doing again I have got a new bottle of boiled linseed oil.

I found out that Teak Oil is just linseed thinned with white spirit.

I am using a Ronson dye to level up the colour, and will probably give it some more Cuprinol clear preserver first.

 

[hilti68]

We've had two sunny days this week, and as mine needs doing again I have got a new bottle of boiled linseed oil.

I found out that Teak Oil is just linseed thinned with white spirit.

I am using a Ronson dye to level up the colour, and will probably give it some more Cuprinol clear preserver first.

Thanks John - I didn't know that that was the composition of Teak Oil