Advice on ensuring wiring is ok for new oven & hob...ple
- Thread starter Stevethetiler
- Start date
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Well, its all 6mm cable..... 6mm supply to the 45a DP cooker switch (from the CU) which is installed at worktop level next to the hob.
Then its 6mm load cable to the double unswitched socket in the adjacent cupboard right next to the oven and hob (oven is built in directly under the hob)
Currently this is all on its own dedicated circuit on the CU protected by 40a RCBO.
The current oven and hob are then plugged in to the unswitched double socket with respective fused plugs. Flicking the 45a DP isolates the unswitched socket, so isolates both appliances at once.
Obviously, I cant hardwire my gas hob into a cooker connection plate as its 3a so I need a socket for that.
The new oven needs hardwiring according to Hotpoint.
So, If I change the RCBO to a 20a, use one of those Click Dual cooker connection plates, with the load from the 45a DP switch connected to supply side of the plate, connect one of the loads from the plate to the oven flex and use the other load side of the plate to run 6mm to the socket in the cupboard, in my mind, this sounds right.
If thats the case then:
The hob will be protected by its own fuse in the 3a plug located in the adjacent cupboard. The oven will be protected by the 20a RCBO and this would be large enough to cover the two appliances without having a double socket run off a 40a circuit.
Hows that sound LOL
(note that I wont be changing to a huge range cooker etc as its a newly fitted kitchen - I will leave that to the next joe !)Top Banana!
Ive got some 6mm lying around though so I guess that may as well get used eh?
Another question for ya.
Obvioulsy I need to change the RCBO down to 20a from 40a.
Is it notifiable to change these yourself? - how easy are they to change?
I see that they have a "fly lead".....IF I were to change this RCBO myself, would I be able to do so by simply turning the whole consumer unit off, removing the cover, remove the 40a and simply put the 20a in its place with the fly lead wired to exactly the same place as where the 40a fly lead was wired to?
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Yes, changing the RCBO will be notifiable and you need to perform the correct tests which demonstrate that the circuit is safe & compliant.
If you're confident & competent working inside a consumer unit and know that you are working safely it is not difficult, but there is danger present and you need to know exactly what you're doing. If in doubt, don't.
If your CU has been wired by a spaghetti enthusiast, RCBOs can be a bit tricky to fit in due to their size.
The replacement RCBO should be connected exactly as the old one was. Make sure the connections are properly made and tight - sometimes the N connection is quite deep. Ensure polarity is correct.
Cost of notifying + obtaining test gear would be far greater than having an electrician do this. And the electrician may also take the view it's not even necessary.
If you're confident & competent working inside a consumer unit and know that you are working safely it is not difficult, but there is danger present and you need to know exactly what you're doing. If in doubt, don't.
If your CU has been wired by a spaghetti enthusiast, RCBOs can be a bit tricky to fit in due to their size.
The replacement RCBO should be connected exactly as the old one was. Make sure the connections are properly made and tight - sometimes the N connection is quite deep. Ensure polarity is correct.
Cost of notifying + obtaining test gear would be far greater than having an electrician do this. And the electrician may also take the view it's not even necessary.
Cheers fella,
I think I will do the legwork (wiring backwards, installing the socket and cooker connection plate whilst the circuit is off as I wont need it for a while) and get a qualified electrician to come in, change the RCBO and test the circuit for safety purposes.
Then, when Hotpoint come out to install the oven, they can just hardwire it into the dual connection plate and jobs a good 'un....
Hey, tell me, Do I have to get a certificate from the spark or is it not necessary? (I have a friend who could do the testing & RCBO etc but not sure if he can issue me a certificate)
Thanks for your help!
Strictly speaking, even the cooker outlet installation would be notifiable.
Anybody competent can issue a minor works or EIC cert, but that person can only certify his own work.
If you want your own kitchen work to be certified also I suggest you tell your spark what you intend to do, see if he would agree to inspect and certify your part to his satisfaction.
A professional spark should issue a cert. for any work he does and also notify building control if the work was notifiable through his professional membership scheme.
Whether you get the whole thing properly certified or not is a matter for you and your law-abiding conscience. More importantly, be safe!
Anybody competent can issue a minor works or EIC cert, but that person can only certify his own work.
If you want your own kitchen work to be certified also I suggest you tell your spark what you intend to do, see if he would agree to inspect and certify your part to his satisfaction.
A professional spark should issue a cert. for any work he does and also notify building control if the work was notifiable through his professional membership scheme.
Whether you get the whole thing properly certified or not is a matter for you and your law-abiding conscience. More importantly, be safe!
Thanks for the stellar info....much appreciated indeed.
I have had a spark round just now - explained the scenario and he was in agreement with what you and I have suggested regards to wiring.
As I am a fairly competent guy, (when we had the kitchen and new CU last year, the firm of electrians agreed to let me do all the drops and such forth, I laid all the cable, back boxes, sockets, eveything. Wired them all up and basically, they came out, tested it all...it was fine and they gave me a certificate and I saved a small fortune by doing most of the work myself - apart from the CU) - the spark that came today agreed to come and change the RCBO and test the circuit, give me a certificate if its all good and charge me £50.
Not too bad, mind he will probably be here 15 mins for that
- I dont mind, as long as its safe. Thats the main thing.(need to change my job from tiling to electrics methinks
)Haha, yeah....most likely the most extravagant thing will be oven chips
Oh, and btw, I take it 6mm is ok to wire the socket for the hob? - I know you said save a bit and use 2.5mm but 6mm is fine I presume as I have a few metres left over in the garage!
On a side note to installation as already outlined, the electrician that came out today told me that I could (or he could) install the dual cooker connection plate within the adjacent cupboard to limit the amount of work (eg. chasing out for a box in the wall behind the oven to ensure the plate cover fits flush).
Is this within regulations? - just struck me as odd but Im no expert. If its ok, it may make things easier and as its a pretty deep oven, would give more space behind it - ensuring the rear of the oven isnt bang up to the blanking plate etc.
What d'ya think?
Is this within regulations? - just struck me as odd but Im no expert. If its ok, it may make things easier and as its a pretty deep oven, would give more space behind it - ensuring the rear of the oven isnt bang up to the blanking plate etc.
What d'ya think?
6 mm² for your socket isn't going to do any harm. You'll need a good deep box for the cooker outlet though.
I can't quote a reg for fixing the outlet inside a cupboard. It would be better chased in to the wall, but so long as any emerging cables are not subject to damage it should be OK.
I can't quote a reg for fixing the outlet inside a cupboard. It would be better chased in to the wall, but so long as any emerging cables are not subject to damage it should be OK.
Thats great - I will probably chase out behind the oven and do it as it should be done. Dont like the thought of the outlet inside a cupboard.
The 6mm cable behind the oven is surface mounted/clipped so I will do my best to ensure a flush blanking plate etc.
Thank you again so much for your adivce. Invaluable. Top Man!
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