Air Seperator

if you only put heating on at first and boiler fired up valve would of opened to activate the boiler & pump to fire up.
 
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The boiler seems to be shutting down a lot,Feed is still getting hot, but seems like an air lock in seperator is that possible?
Pipe sequence is;
feed from boiler straight into seperator, then out towards pump, straight after seperator there is a T connector which feeds the cold top up into system and on to the pump. I can't understand why the sep is staying cold?
 
you say the pump is new are both the isolation valves open ?

the air seperator sounds ok.
it won't airlock or it would be pointless.
i take it you have the vent at the top and the vent isn't blocked ?
 
Thanks for all your help.
This is really frustrating me now.
Both isolation valves are open, they are new as well. the vent is ok, i can hear air escaping up the pipe .Water still isn't getting past the separator. I have taken solenoid off 3 way valve the worm gear is going round but one way only,when i switch off water it doesn't reverse, but keeps going as if on the heating prog .Is that right?
 
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the valve won't stop the water getting to the pump or through the seperator.

as for the valve what solenoid have you taken off it hasn't got a solenoid.

that bit is a bit confusing.

your air seperator has got two ways the water can enter it when filling.
from the cold feed in or from the boiler side in.
can you bleed any rads above the seperator and get water out ?
the only way the seperator won't fill is if the loft tank is not got water in or the cold feed is blocked.

i re-read your 3 port valve issue and i think your barking up the wrong tree with that.

have you any pics of the pipework and new seperator ?
that still wouldn't affect the seperator issue as one port will always be open anyway so water should still circulate when filling.
 
Sorry it is the syncro motor. the cold feed is ok it comes from the expansion tank, I filled the system this afternoon after I finished the pipework,so I know the tank isn't blocked.I have 5 rads above the separator. Do I need to bleed all of them again or just the nearest which is opposite the cupboard?
 
just bleed one into a cup then if fills the cup you know the cold feed is filling the system.

i can't see that the new seperator is blocked unless you've filled it with solder :rolleyes: but what you can do is shut one of the pump isolation valves.
fill the system from the vent pipe then when it comes out the cold feed in the tank you know its going through the seperator and its full.
 
I filled a cup from a rad so I assume the feed is working. I can dismantle the vent pipe half way down so I will take the pipe attached to the separator tomorrow and run a hose through it.See what happens. I used a solder on vent and feed with a compression T joint out going to pump with cold feed.I am pretty sure it isn't blocked with solder but the hose will find that out! Really appreciate all your help with this
 
make sure you drain it down abit first cause the vent will be full of water to the level in the tank.
 
Will do, will let you know the outcome. Much appreciate your help
 
back again!
Well tried the vent and cold feed both are ok,run system ,boiler is heating up for a few seconds then cutting out again.the minimal water it has heated gets up to the separator as before but then the water cools down. As the boiler heats up there is a lot of whooshing noises and occasional bang ,so I presume as I have cleared everything I am thinking boiler thermostat now? I have read somewhere if it continually boils,it could damage thermostat? It is a Wickes 40/50 boiler not sure if you can get parts any more. It is a Ranco c77-100 stat.
We have been running the programmer on 24 hr, wife moved it over to twice a day and it seems to be moving through the pump? Still a lot of noise from the boiler though.
 
Yes checked that. We have water pushing through heating and water gradually,it is slowly warming up,but boiler banging is worrying. Left it running on both progs for a while see what happens.
 
stick the pump on highest setting 3.
but it should be circulating quicker than that.
the banging is the boiler water not circulating quick enough.
 
thanks,
It is already on 3, not much banging but all pipes still only warm. would bleeding rads again help?
 

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