Airfix cement or similar
- Thread starter JohnD
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I've always found stitching any cracks with tie wraps very effective.
Disposable syringe?
Unless you can separate (even slightly) the two parts to be glued to each other you have to rely on capillary action to draw the glue into a crack. The amount drawn in is tiny, so almost inevitably there will be some surplus glue to remove.
Unless you can separate (even slightly) the two parts to be glued to each other you have to rely on capillary action to draw the glue into a crack. The amount drawn in is tiny, so almost inevitably there will be some surplus glue to remove.
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If I'm bothered about the finish I apply it in a similar fashion to superglue; with a pin or small brush. The glue is designed to melt the plastic so to keep it neat you kind have to resist the temptation to push the mating surfaces together hard, otherwise you essentially get melted plastic squeezing out of the gap. Try for an even, light coverage of both surfaces and press together gently
If you need a glue that is a bit thicker and doesn't run, solvent cement intended for assembling waste pipe should work for you; same "it melts ABS and PVC" but a bit thicker gel-like consistency so it may stay put better
If you need a glue that is a bit thicker and doesn't run, solvent cement intended for assembling waste pipe should work for you; same "it melts ABS and PVC" but a bit thicker gel-like consistency so it may stay put better
Or - paper staples, heated with a soldering iron, and pushed through plastic, either side of the split, then folded over.
I use EMA plastic weld with a tiny paintbrush...
Put the brush back into the glue immediately after applying and the brush won't go hard. After you have glued the joint you can push a piece of Baco foil down over the brush handle to prevent evaporation. If the glue has a screw top lid you can drill a hole the same diameter of the brush handle, slide it down over the brush handle and screw it tight, (leaving the foil seal in place). It won't stop it going hard indefinitely but you will save your brush going hard quickly.
cocktail sticks are really good push into any gap opens up and closes behind and the glue has the larger shaft to hold the glue and guided towards the point automatically---- all depending on modern viscosity
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Theoretically, with a good liquid solvent, you shouldn't get stuck together/dried out brushes - the bristles would only stick together if there was dissolved plastic remaining on the bristles.
A good swish around in the solvent after use, should dilute any remaining plastic and the brush can be wiped dry.
I've never found any harm using a soapy rinse afterwards as well.
Generally applied using a needle bottle, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Needle-Bottle-Applicator-Squeeze-Acrylic/dp/B08YNHTH1J
and for the best results it's not glue, but a solvent which welds the plastic together such as https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/plastic-magic-1
and for the best results it's not glue, but a solvent which welds the plastic together such as https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/plastic-magic-1
The glue I've got is a glue that contains solvent, not a solvent. I have nothing to slosh a brush in
Thanks, that might work, they feel like styrene, not perspex.
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