Alarm going off but can't find out why

[jem16]

The battery requires a load test not just voltage. A duff battery could still show 12 or 13 volts. If a load tester is not available connect a car indicator bulb across the battery whilst testing voltage anything lower than 11v indicates a problem.

I haven't spoke to the electrician since he was out yesterday. He was going to test the battery fully under ,oad conditions.

However the new battery is giving the same problems so it's very unlikely that there would be two dodgy batteries.

So problem appears to be either battery fuse related or actual panel problem with the battery - perhaps a dry joint or whatever with the connection with the battery.

I shall ask him to look at the fuse but if he wants to change the whole panel I shall not stop him as that would fix it whether it's fuse or dry joint.

Thank you for your help. It looks like we're getting closer to resolving it.

 

[Europlex]

For heaven's sake, it's a 'dead' battery, 12v means nothing.

Has your Engineer/Electrician done a load test, no, of course he hasn't.

How old is the battery?

Not that really makes any difference, could be fitted new last week and be faulty today.

Bet it's years old.

Replace it now.

Better still put your hand in your pocket and get a Alarm Engineer to test it all for you, at least he will know what and how to do it all properly.

 

[jem16]

For heaven's sake, it's a 'dead' battery, 12v means nothing.

Has your Engineer/Electrician done a load test, no, of course he hasn't.

He might have by now - I haven't spoke to him since he took it away.

How old is the battery?

6 months.

Not that really makes any difference, could be fitted new last week and be faulty today.

Yes it could.

Bet it's years old.

You lose!

Replace it now.

It has been and new battery doing exactly the same. Unlikely to be two duff batteries.

Better still put your hand in your pocket and get a Alarm Engineer to test it all for you, at least he will know what and how to do it all properly.

Yes I could but as the system is only 6 months old and I paid good money then, why on earth should I pay more to get it looked at by someone else.

Did you actually read the whole thread or just jump in to criticise?

 

[Europlex]

For heaven's sake, it's a 'dead' battery, 12v means nothing.

Has your Engineer/Electrician done a load test, no, of course he hasn't.

He might have by now - I haven't spoke to him since he took it away.

That says it all, the load test can't be done anywhere other than connected to the panel and system it is supposed to be supplying standby power for.

Engineer/Electrician? I think not.

 

[jem16]

That says it all, the load test can't be done anywhere other than connected to the panel and system it is supposed to be supplying standby power for.

So say so in the first place - I'm not a mind reader!

I came on here looking for help. If you want to help then fine give me pointers that are useful.

 

[jem16]

That says it all, the load test can't be done anywhere other than connected to the panel and system it is supposed to be supplying standby power for.

Engineer/Electrician? I think not.

By the way I have just had a phone call from the electrician to say that as the battery is showing 11.9v he wants to come back tomorrow morning to check the battery in place and under load conditions. He also wants to check the battery fuse.

And No I didn't suggest it.

 

[Europlex]

By the way I have just had a phone call from the electrician to say that as the battery is showing 11.9v he wants to come back tomorrow morning to check the battery in place and under load conditions. He also wants to check the battery fuse.

And No I didn't suggest it.

Well I hope he is going to also check that the battery is being charged within the normal set tolerances, if he knows them that is.


PS

I forgot to say, any alarm battery is supposed to be 'on charge' in situ, for 24hrs B4 any accurate readings can/should be taken.

 

[redpis]

Jem

As the others have said, get the electrician to check the charging voltage and current to the battery, its a given that this is where the fault lies.

The charging voltage should be in the region of 13.8v DC charging current will depend on how discharged the battery is, whatever it is, he must measure and record it (this will prove the battery is taking charge as the initial high value will fall as the battery takes charge)

ps, don't forget to take the neighbours a box of chocolates for their inconvieniance

 

[lectriclegs]

just a thought but on that particular panel if the batt has been faulty for a while it tends to burn out the resistor that controls the charging circuit.it shouldnt have happened in your case with the batt only being six months old ,but its worth a look

 

[jem16]

OK just to update.

The electrician spent a while going through various tests this morning. Correct voltage was getting through to the battery and correct voltage was coming out of the battery basically but panel wasn't switching to battery power when needed. He was doing various other test but I'm not sure exacltly what as I didn't want to hang over him.

In the end he decided that a new panel would be best considering it was only 6 months old. Panel duly changed and before attaching it to the mains he decided to test it out purely on battery power - all was well. Finished powering it up and then tested it by flicking off the mains circuit breaker. This time it did as it should and switched over onto battery power - did this a few times to be sure.

It's obviously something within the panel itself but what we don't know. It could have been a dry joint, broken joint or whatever ( now I'm guessing here as I'm not an electronics engineer).


I suspect it was faulty from the start as it never worked from battery but we assumed the battery just needed time to charge up - perhaps not.

I am niw hoping that's the end of my false alarms.

Thank you to those who offered help.