I have a very frustrating problem with my Alpha 240E boiler. Initially it will not fire (no HW or CH), both the red and orange neons are lit. Previous advice drove me to replace the air pressure switch. This proved fruitless, I still have the same problem. The strange thing is if I turn of then run the HW and switch the pump from fast to slow or slow to fast then the the boiler fires, I have hot water until I turn off the tap. I then have to do the same again to get hot water. Does anyone know what the problem can be??
Alpha 240 E boiler problem
- Thread starter johnwkey
- Start date
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If you mean the diverter switch for DHW, then it seems to operate ok. I have had a development. I only get the problem when the selector is switched to CH AND HW, when I get it going if I leave in the HW only position it seems (at the moment) to work ok.
As Chris implies it sounds as if the system flow switch is not operating reliably. This is similar to the diverter switch but towards the back of the boiler with a vertically orientated pin.
If this is not coming out reliably it is almost always due to dirt in the system and checking the pump impeller first would be the first task. I did not think the original pump had a variable speed selector.
If the impeller is clean then its most likely to be a blockage in the water ways. This would be confirmed by a temperature survey within the boiler.
Its very unlikely but sometimes a faulty system flow switch diaphragm or dirt within its housing will cause this.
Tony
If this is not coming out reliably it is almost always due to dirt in the system and checking the pump impeller first would be the first task. I did not think the original pump had a variable speed selector.
If the impeller is clean then its most likely to be a blockage in the water ways. This would be confirmed by a temperature survey within the boiler.
Its very unlikely but sometimes a faulty system flow switch diaphragm or dirt within its housing will cause this.
Tony
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ok, the main system flow switch is fully extended. I agree it could be something to with flow though. FYI it is an original pump, and does have 3 settings, although by the sounds of it on the lowest setting it seems to be off, which is unusual for a grundfos pump. And the little white "reset" button never seems to do anything. Do you think if I flush the system out it will make any difference?
As I said, the switch is on the bent metal bracket on top of the diverter valve.
I suggested you check it. If you were going to check a light switch you'd do more than see whether the white plastic bit on the front moves...?
It's an electrical device so you'd normally check it with a multimeter. If you don't know how, then don't go into the boiler at all.
You said the switch is fully extended, by which I assume you mean the pin - then the flow of water is obviously doing its job so no, having cleaner water would make no difference.
I suggested you check it. If you were going to check a light switch you'd do more than see whether the white plastic bit on the front moves...?
It's an electrical device so you'd normally check it with a multimeter. If you don't know how, then don't go into the boiler at all.
You said the switch is fully extended, by which I assume you mean the pin - then the flow of water is obviously doing its job so no, having cleaner water would make no difference.
Ok, Checked all the switches I can see, including the main one described, they all are working correctly. Intermittently now it works, only on DHW, no CH at all. I think something is either stopping the fan from working (IE some kind of cut off) or maybe the main board is fault. I can hear the MAin board relay "click" just before the red and amber lights come on. I have looks carefully through the manual, there is no indication that both the red and amber light ever come on at the same time. What happens is this....
I turn switch to turn on DHW, then run a tap, the red light comes on a few secs after and almost immediately the amber one at the same time a distinct "click" is heard.
I turn switch to turn on DHW, then run a tap, the red light comes on a few secs after and almost immediately the amber one at the same time a distinct "click" is heard.
What's next, is you follow the fault finding procedure in the manual you have.
To do that you need the relevant meter, and enough familiarity of electric stuff, or natural ability, to work out what they're on about, and how the boiler works, so you can come up with a probable fault.
Then you might be able to go about fixing it. But if you can't do the analysis there is little chance of the fix. Time to call someone in.
To do that you need the relevant meter, and enough familiarity of electric stuff, or natural ability, to work out what they're on about, and how the boiler works, so you can come up with a probable fault.
Then you might be able to go about fixing it. But if you can't do the analysis there is little chance of the fix. Time to call someone in.
I have got a multimeter, I do know how to use it, I followed the fault process from the manual, which lead to suggesting the air flow switch was faulty, replaced that but didnt make any difference (I replaced the tubes at the time of replacing the switch). Like I think I said before, at no point does it say the re and amber light should be lit at the same time. All I want to know is what is the most likely fault? Could it be the fan? Everything seems to work ok, (listening to the noise the boiler makes) upto the acual firing. Then the red light comes on and nothing happens.
None of us is likely to remember which the amber (you also say orange)light is! The manuals are monochrome but do show symbols.....
Better use that meter then... have you done any of:
Measured the fan resistance, checked if it's stiff to turn, noted whether is starts when it has xx?? volts on it, whether the aps switch contacts change over, if the fan starts at all, ditto for pump and flow switch, resistance of gas valve, whether it has volts getting to it... etc?
Check the sensors - should be about 10kR cold.
Better use that meter then... have you done any of:
Measured the fan resistance, checked if it's stiff to turn, noted whether is starts when it has xx?? volts on it, whether the aps switch contacts change over, if the fan starts at all, ditto for pump and flow switch, resistance of gas valve, whether it has volts getting to it... etc?
Check the sensors - should be about 10kR cold.
My meter may be faulty. When I touch the two probes together it registers 5kr, when I touch a piece of metal with both probes metal it shows 5kr. When I check the overheat sensor it shows 5 kr, but when I check the DHW sensor it shows a reading below 0kr???
I am sure touching the probes together should give a reading of 0, maybe the batteries need changing, I will try again after changing them, but does any of this make sense?
I am sure touching the probes together should give a reading of 0, maybe the batteries need changing, I will try again after changing them, but does any of this make sense?
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