Another Retaining Wall Q

[pgtips]

The membrane down the back is a good idea. I always use bitumen or similar waterproofing paint on the back of a retaining wall, a similar idea. Paint is probably preferable as it soaks right into the bricks and can't get punctured. But it probably won't work on one that's already been buried so is muddy. There will always be a route from the bottom of the membrane up behind it via groundwater pressure, as its bottom edge won't be attached to anything.

Definitely get some gravel behind the membrane too. Ensure there's a path to the drain holes, and that they don't get blocked by the membrane. It may (will) move after being buried.

I'd still be concerned about the render/plaster detaching, it's a risk but only time will tell. The risk-free answer would be rebuilding with decent bricks. It may sound like a more drastic course but in reality your builder's approach is still a lot of work and materials, there may be less difference between facelift and rebuild than you'd think.

Weathered LBC bricks remind me of pink wafer biscuits, once they start eroding they don't want to stop.

Looking again the final decision is to pull it all down and start again. Low bricks are blowing, high placed bricks are blowing. We plan on staying for years so time to get some quotes to rebuild properly with bitumen back, damp course at the bottom and decent bricks. We will paint it afterwards becuase it looks nicer so I am not restricted with bricks we choose.

@noseall (or anyone) it looks like just plain grey engineering bricks ontop of your walls. How do you stop water ingress through the concrete gap between each brick or with a half decent brick underneath isn't it such a issue ?.

I'll have a look on the forum if theres and tradespeople nearby to chelmsford.

thanks again
Kev

 

[noseall]

it looks like just plain grey engineering bricks ontop of your walls. How do you stop water ingress through the concrete gap between each brick or with a half decent brick underneath isn't it such a issue ?.

A nicely struck (pointed) Staffs blue brick, won't admit water.

Belt and braces weathering would have a tile crease as well as the blues. But it wouldn't matter as much with FL rated bricks. Continual soaking with water, may shorten the lifespan of the pointing though and cause moss etc to form.

 

[pgtips]

A nicely struck (pointed) Staffs blue brick, won't admit water.

Belt and braces weathering would have a tile crease as well as the blues. But it wouldn't matter as much with FL rated bricks. Continual soaking with water, may shorten the lifespan of the pointing though and cause moss etc to form.

Thank you.
A shame you are not closer your work looks nice.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

I really, really wouldn't recommend painting a garden wall, at all ever. It will fall off, however good the bricks are. Whatever waterproofing you use on the back and top, some water will always get into the bricks, the face is the only way out. So any paint will eventually get pushed off. Older paints tended to seal and form big ugly blisters. Newer paints are breathable, the result is that they don't blister but instead they fall off as powder.

Also it's possible that any paint will make the water more likely to stay within the brick body, causing the frost damage to the brick.

Find some bricks you like the look of, perhaps a contrast with the house rather than a near match. Get it built by someone who has the sort of attention to detail that noseall has. Don't go anywhere near it with a paintbrush and it will look great for ever, with almost zero maintenance. Perhaps a gentle waft with a powerwasher if it ever gets too green.

Concrete bricks are more frost-resistant than clay.

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