Any point in upgrading glass in existing window frames?

[aveatry]

Great advice thanks - I’m not sure how thick my existing panes are but I reckon 22mm… won’t know until I take one out and measure.

Regarding cost I have seen this with what I was charged to have a couple of panes replaced with acoustic glass, I don’t think it would have been cheaper to buy and fit myself than to have a tradie supply and fit for me. I’ll need to do a bit more research.

At a minimum I’m replacing most handles as these are very worn, and gaskets. I took a sample gasket off today, I’m assuming by how flat it is that this is at end-of-life?

View attachment 364343

I forgot about those ones - I was referring to the main ones that hold in the glass. Yes some of those will also need replacing too. Again do the ebay sample set thing

 

[DIYspanner]

I replaced all the glazing units in my 2003 built house when I moved in two years ago. Five had failed do I decided to change all.

I suggest sourcing any glazing units from a glazing manufacturer rather than doors, windows and conservatories installers.

As far as I'm aware, the modern glazing units are Argon gas filled.

Gasket seal and hinges are available on ebay.

Plenty of how to stuff on YT.

 

[aveatry]

I replaced all the glazing units in my 2003 built house when I moved in two years ago. Five had failed do I decided to change all.

I suggest souring any glazing units from a glazing manufacturer rather than doors, windows and conservatories installers.

As far as I'm aware, the modern glazing units are Argon gas filled.

Gasket seal and hinges are available on ebay.

Plenty of how to stuff on YT.

Yes the door and double glazing fitter just do the frames and they source their glass from a glazing manufacture. I go straight to the glazing supplier you should find a local one and the units are not as expensive as you might think.
One by one my origional units have failed and I replace them as and when.
Yes I think argon and warm edge glazing separators are now standard instead of the old silver ones that allowed transfer of cold from outside to inside.
I would recommend getting the coating on the glass, when I put my hand on a pane with it on it feels warmer than the non coated ones as its designed to reflect the heat into the room - so make sure you fit it the right way around.

 

[aveatry]

I replaced all the glazing units in my 2003 built house when I moved in two years ago. Five had failed do I decided to change all.

Also what is the point in paying all of that out ( if you had them installed yourself ) in 2023 only to replace the whole lot - frames and all, with the idea of saving money on heating - how much would you of saved - well a typical 3 bed semi perhaps with 1 or 2 bays you are looking at £12,000 for the lot - so that is £600 per year over 20 years.
Maybe someone else can do the math but you are sold them on the basis of saving energy ( which I am all for ) but if you are replacing the whole lot every 20 years you dont save anything do you ?
But replacing the glass only and because you are allowed to do it DIY - unlike the frames makes much more sense.

I get door to door sellers. "oh I can see you have got UPVC windows - but how old are they" -- I will leave it to you to imagine my response

 

[dr_bogenbroom]

So I received a sample replacement seal which was a little bigger, but went in ok with a small spray of silicone spray… is there anything bad about using silicone spray to help push in seal?

 

[aveatry]

So I received a sample replacement seal which was a little bigger, but went in ok with a small spray of silicone spray… is there anything bad about using silicone spray to help push in seal?

did you not get the sample set with about 10 different 10cm short lengths in it, new rubber will already have a little lube on it so if you are having to add more then the seals could be a bit big but not sure if that's a problem

 

[aveatry]

they will probably look a little bigger as the old ones will of shrunk

 

[dr_bogenbroom]

I sent a sample of my own and they sent me the best fit - it’s fitted in really tight after I used a little spray of silicone lubricant so I think I’ll order some and try and fit around the whole window

 

[aveatry]

I sent a sample of my own and they sent me the best fit - it’s fitted in really tight after I used a little spray of silicone lubricant so I think I’ll order some and try and fit around the whole window

good plan that's what i did, also i pulled out one old one at time to replace

 

[dr_bogenbroom]

good plan that's what i did, also i pulled out one old one at time to replace

Did you find the corners tricky? And I’ve read you need to start the run at the top of the window where there is less weathering.

 

[aveatry]

didn't know about the starting at the top idea, could argue that its easier to start with a weathered shrunken one.
When fitting make a effort to not stretch the rubber as you push in it keep pushing the opposite direction to compress the rubber otherwise it can shrink back away from the corners.
On a few of my windows the corners were bent as one continuous length after a snip had been put in the back but those had all pulled away from the corners. I mitred mine and although they dont need to be perfect I said to myself next time I have a load to do I will get one of these.
https://windowparts.co.uk/gasket-shears.html
Useful for other stuff too. I found that the bottom one doesn't have to be perfect and can be long and the the top one you can cut better - but also cut it slightly too long.
By bottom I mean the one that you have just put in and by top I mean the next one you put in sort of on top of that one so it is not a perfect mitre join - the rubbers push into each other.