Are Push Fit connectors any good?
- Thread starter markf
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B
breezer
50 50 answer some do some dont.
depends on cost v soldered joint i suppose, not may used then yes, lots required cost a lot
depends on cost v soldered joint i suppose, not may used then yes, lots required cost a lot
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A friend of mine works for a heating firm that uses plastic pipe and push fit connectors for most of their work. After installation they always pressure test the entire system and any bad joints will show up. Hepworth insist that the pipe is always cut with the proper pipe cutter and not a hacksaw which can leave burrs that can damage the 'o' ring.
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Every now and again there's one which misbehaves - every make I've heard of. I readily use them where I can get at them.
But I've got one under a tiled floor which leaks slightly - it was fine for 1 year or so. It's staining the ceiling slowly. When the lanldord notices I'll have to try going up through the ceiling. A bit off-putting!
When I did NVQ they tried using the Cupro-fit ones. About 1 in 50 leaked, which is a joke, though that's with school drop-outs who can't concentrate long enough to put the pipe all the way in.
But I've got one under a tiled floor which leaks slightly - it was fine for 1 year or so. It's staining the ceiling slowly. When the lanldord notices I'll have to try going up through the ceiling. A bit off-putting!
When I did NVQ they tried using the Cupro-fit ones. About 1 in 50 leaked, which is a joke, though that's with school drop-outs who can't concentrate long enough to put the pipe all the way in.
i personnaly think that they are good,not the just the speed of which you can install them but i had to cap of a cold water supply under the floorboards with very limited room to work so i just used a push-fit stop end & jobs a good-un 
I started off using compression joints in my new bathroom and then later switched to cuprofit. Wish I had started that way!
The only issue I have had with cuprofit is with a wet pipe in confined spaces; it is hard to grip a wet pipe and push it into the fitting with enough force to get it home.
I find that to make sure you have pushed the copper pipe in far enough it can be useful to mark the pipe with a pencil line an inch or so from the end. That way you can gauge how far it has gone in.
The only issue I have had with cuprofit is with a wet pipe in confined spaces; it is hard to grip a wet pipe and push it into the fitting with enough force to get it home.
I find that to make sure you have pushed the copper pipe in far enough it can be useful to mark the pipe with a pencil line an inch or so from the end. That way you can gauge how far it has gone in.
Are you serious?AndyDavis said:
To fit a Cuprofit joint onto the pipe, you do the following:
Push it on the end of the pipe.
To fit a compression joint, you do this:
slide a nut over the pipe
slide an olive over the pipe.
Whack some PTFE tape on or splodge some jointing compound over it.
Locate pipe into fitting.
Hold pipe in place while you do up the nut.
I think you'll find that the cuprofit method is a slight quicker.
I've found cupro-fit no better than any other push-fit. They certainly don't come off the ipe easily with the special tool. That's one reason I'm inclined towards Speedfit - they can be removed easily, too easily perhaps if not the more recent twist-lock ones.
Push-fit is the only type of fitting where you can't assemble the pipework to try for length, and simply take the pipe out if it's wrong!
Push-fit is the only type of fitting where you can't assemble the pipework to try for length, and simply take the pipe out if it's wrong!
You're right of course. But in the context of my post, I didn't want it to sound too simple.
I shall naturally, carry out a self inflicted chastisement at some point in the near future. I'll just wait until I'm not expecting it. That'll teach me Only in ideal circumstances. Like the ability to apply recommended torque - often inadvisable or impossible in practice. Like using perfect, new pipe - not found when changing rad valves..oilman said:
Nah- just different. Less resilient. Not as good if you want twist resistance, eg on a washing machine valve.
hot weather - feelig spiky!
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