Are the Current Consumer Units that I have ok?

what circuits are on the newer consumer unit? and is it a unit with a RCD main switch?

also how wide is the space that mem board in?
 
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plugwash said:
what circuits are on the newer consumer unit? and is it a unit with a RCD main switch?

also how wide is the space that mem board in?

The newer CCU has:

  • The Shed Power & it has a 16amp MCB

    The Kitchen Ring & it has a 32amp MCB

    The Cooker & Hob & they have a 32amp MCB

And Yes it is a unit with a RCD main switch
 
ok the newer CU sounds fine.

as for the old CU if you can find one thats small enough to fit (hence why i asked how wide the space is) and has enough spaces a split load (lighting on non-rcd side, sockets on RCD side) would be the cheapest option that complies with modern regs.
 
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Neither do I, but have spoken to ENA about it. They say they are happy with the DNO's use of clamps, but they will not be using EC14's any more.
 
I will post up how wide the space that the mem CCU is in on Thursday 4th Oct :!:

(As I have not time lately to measure the space)
 
BAS,
ban-all-sheds said:
Don't like the look of that BS951 clamp on the cable sheath....
I know you don't like those, but my house has one and it's fine! I've been here 23 years and I'm sure it wasn't fitted just before I moved in. The lead hasn't seeped, the clamp is still tight, and I get an EFLI of less than 0.4 ohms at the sockets (I'll do one at the CU next time I'm under the stairs - I can't remember what it was when I last checked). So while they may be a problem, they aren't necessarily so. The only thing I've done with it was to replace the tiny wire that it was connected with, with 16mm² (it was no more than 2.5mm² and probably less, but it was 7-strand so it may have been 7/029).

Cheers,

Howard
 
I didn't think any of the DNOs liked them either, but it seems that some don't care. Problem is, of course, that tightening them if they work loose can crush the cores...
 
I was thinking of maybe changing the older ccu to a Crabtree starbreaker 10 way split- load ccu
 
Our advice is to consolidate both CU's into one new one, either a split-load one suited to your supply type, or a 100A incomer with RCBO's for all necessary sockets. As John pointed out, RCBO option is far superior, but most cannot justify the cost.
 
securespark said:
Our advice is to consolidate both CU's into one new one, either a split-load one suited to your supply type, or a 100A incomer with RCBO's for all necessary sockets. As John pointed out, RCBO option is far superior, but most cannot justify the cost.

I Know that it would be best to consolidate both ccu into one new one, but the space in the cupboard is limited, so it would be easyer to keep the newer RCD ccu which is for the Kitchen and the Shed(Shed=32 Amp,Cooker=32 Amp, Kitchen Ring 1=32Amp, Kitchen Ring 2=32 Amp), and change the older ccu with a Crabtree Starbreaker 10 way split- load ccu, and have it set up like this:

Non-RCD Side

Upstairs Lights (6 Amp)

Downstairs Lights (6 Amp)

Smoke Alarms (6 Amp) (I will be put these in soon, 1 in the Kitchen= A Heat one, 1 on the Landing= A Smoke one, and 1 in the Loft= A Heat one- As the Boiler is up in the Loft)

Waterproof Double RCD Outside Socket (16 Amp)

One Spare Way


RCD Side

Upstairs Sockets (32 Amp)

Downstairs Sockets (32 Amp)

Three Spare Ways


And

Do Power Showers have to have their own circuit :?:

And what side of a split- load ccu do they go on :?:
 

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