Are the Makita SP6000 Track Saw and the Evolution ST2800 rails a good combo?

[Derek M]

I bought this "Evolution Power Tools ST2800 Circular Saw Guide Rail/Track 2-Piece Track (1400mm x 2) 2800 mm" (old model) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HRDG2JG on sale a while ago for £67, and now I'm thinking of buying the Makita SP6000 Track Saw and case for £300

Are there any issues with using those rails with the SP6000? Would using the Makita 2*1.5m rails, which would cost an extra £120, provide any advantage over using the Evolution ones, or are they basically identical apart from the slightly longer length?

 

[ETAF]

might be worth looking at Peter Millards youtube Videos, he did a video/series on tracksaws and rails some while back now though

and the one out today ,
rutland - down in price to £195 - BUT watch and see peters feedback

my son-in-law has the Makita SP2000 and he is very happy with it , but he got the kit , with rails

this is 4 years old now

 

[Derek M]

Thanks. I'm not keen on getting a cordless one, and the fact that the Rutland needs two batteries, so I'd have to have at least four to be able to swap them out and keep going, puts me right off that one. I've got a few Einhell cordless tools and if I was going to get a cordless one I'd rather stick with Einhell so I don't have to have different chargers and batteries, but I think a corded one makes more sense for me.

Even with a cordless one you've still got the dust extraction hose getting in the way, so unless you really need to use it in places where there's no power, I don't think it's a good option.

It looks like the SP6000 will work with the Evolution track though. I might buy the new model 2x1400mm rail kit, because it's clearly much better than the old one and even has some advantages over the Makita rails, and then maybe cut one of the old Evolution rails into 800mm & 600mm to use for smaller jobs and try to sell the other one.

 

[big-all]

dont forget the track needs to be perhaps 150-300mm longer than the length off cut to keep the machine exactly on line at the start and the end off the cut
the exact amount will depend on machine
i have dewalt a 500mm a 633mm[550mm door size] 865mm[standard 762 door] and a 998 track [2x1500 cut down]
now in tight spaces you can use shorter tracks but the adjustable guides at front and back wont be supported for all the cut this can cause the machine to hang up on the end off the rail needing a wiggle or lift to continue now not ideal iff the blade has a say 1mm bit off sideways play as the guide is off the track and the same wander iff it drops off the track before the blade is clear

 

[big-all]

have edited the above with more comments

 

[blup]

I bought this "Evolution Power Tools ST2800 Circular Saw Guide Rail/Track 2-Piece Track (1400mm x 2) 2800 mm" (old model) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HRDG2JG on sale a while ago for £67, and now I'm thinking of buying the Makita SP6000 Track Saw and case for £300

Are there any issues with using those rails with the SP6000? Would using the Makita 2*1.5m rails, which would cost an extra £120, provide any advantage over using the Evolution ones, or are they basically identical apart from the slightly longer length?

The 1.5 metre length gives more overlap for the length of the saw body before the blade engages with the material, useful on the short side of 8 x4 board

 

[Derek M]

dont forget the track needs to be perhaps 150-300mm longer than the length off cut to keep the machine exactly on line at the start and the end off the cut
the exact amount will depend on machine
i have dewalt a 500mm a 633mm[550mm door size] 865mm[standard 762 door] and a 998 track [2x1500 cut down]
now in tight spaces you can use shorter tracks but the adjustable guides at front and back wont be supported for all the cut this can cause the machine to hang up on the end off the rail needing a wiggle or lift to continue now not ideal iff the blade has a say 1mm bit off sideways play as the guide is off the track and the same wander iff it drops off the track before the blade is clear

Thanks, that's good to know as I'm thinking of using it to trim some doors, so maybe I'll sacrifice both of my old Evolution 1400mm rails and cut them into 633mm+767mm and 865mm+535mm.

My Dad needs to cut down the middle of his old wooden decking in situ to take it up before laying new composite decking. Would it be a good idea to use the track saw and the old Evolution rails to do that before I cut them up? He was planning on just using his circular saw, but I don't think it's a good idea to use that to plunge cut into wood on the floor whilst crouching next to it.

 

[big-all]

general comments
you need to know how much overhang you need for your actual saw to plunge the dewalt has a parrallel plunge action so down and forward full parallel and level
i mark[felt tip pen or scratch on track] so the average thickness is marked at about 70mm overhang for 30mm depth off plunge so less than 30mm scratch line on or slightly forward or more say 44mm 20mm back from start off cut but as i say saw dependant

also the dewalt will trim 12mm off doors in situ or even skirting in situ

crouching next to a proper plunge saw will not be a problem as it will have kickback protection and the blade will never be exposed as the machine contains the blade fully and in operation the work fully covers it

with decking it needs to be dry otherwise it can bind
if your evolution is a proper plunge then danger is greatly reduced by blade retraction and antikickback
if its a circsaw on a track greater care required to stop jumping out and running away

other general comments all joints need to be on timber so maybe cut to the side off fixings to avoid screws also composit may be thinner so adding a timber to the side off the joining joist can be adjusted to maybe slightly thinner planks but they can often be half the profile as in 22 over 44mm

 

[Derek M]

Thanks. It's been pretty hot and dry lately, so the old decking should be dry but it isn't as rigid as it used to be and sags a bit in places when standing on it (hence why it's being replaced), so that might increase the risk of binding.

Would it be safer to screw or clamp a rigid piece of wood on top of the decking, and then place the rail on that, so that the wood and the rail remain flat under the track saw even if the decking sags? Or would the blade still be just as likely to bind in the decking when that sags and bends?

 

[opps]

The 1.5 metre length gives more overlap for the length of the saw body before the blade engages with the material, useful on the short side of 8 x4 board

I have Festool rails. I have always been underwhelmed at the plunge in and plunge out wiggle room. 4 ft is 1440mm. IMO they should be about 1700m to allow the plunge and exit. It is an expensive item, why not make it a tad longer?

 

[big-all]

Thanks. It's been pretty hot and dry lately, so the old decking should be dry but it isn't as rigid as it used to be and sags a bit in places when standing on it (hence why it's being replaced), so that might increase the risk of binding.

Would it be safer to screw or clamp a rigid piece of wood on top of the decking, and then place the rail on that, so that the wood and the rail remain flat under the track saw even if the decking sags? Or would the blade still be just as likely to bind in the decking when that sags and bends?

try not to overthink place yourself on the side you wish to keep with the track on the cutline making sure no fixings will be hit' set the blade say 5mm deeper than required to allow for uneven boards
place your arm over the saw rather than to the side so your weight will push the saw into the track rather than at an angle hand or knee on front or back off track iff required to stop movement but never more than say 5kg to avoid track distorting through point loading[knee]

your body weight should alway be between 2 supporting joists /timbers so the plank ends you are cutting have non off your weight on them appart from the odd 5 or so kg holding the track in place

you can iff you feel happier place a plank say 100mm on the waste side screwed to any sagging planks to bring them up level to aid cutting

 

[Derek M]

There is no waste side or side we wish to keep here. My Dad just wants to cut up the old decking in situ, basically cutting the planks in half, to make them fit in his car I guess. I think there's a joist a few inches either side of where he's going to cut, so neither side is totally unsupported and there shouldn't be any fixings along that line between the joists.,

It's just that some of the decking is a bit rotten so it tends to move and sag in places when you put weight on it, and I understand that the track saw and rail need a flat, rigid, stable, clean surface to work properly/safely.