Track Saw advice...

I'm mostly convinced that one of the cheap track saws will be right for me. I've not yet chosen which one... that still looks like a minefield.
My first thought when reads your initial post was "why do you want a track saw, given your stated usage pattern"

Were I you, I'd buy a decent circ saw, not drop it, and use a couple of quick clamps to hold a straight edge onto any work I wanted to track cut. Do a first pass at a shallow depth (1-3mm) before making it deeper, to help avoid the surface breaking out.. If you're cutting woods with a thin blade, make several runs with progressively deeper depths to avoid a wandering cut
 
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tried using it recently to grind out cracks in render.
You used an oscillating multi tool to perform a job that, purely by how you describe the job, would have been best done by a grinder?
 
I hope A.Seve has looked at Peter Millards Utoob channel on made a decision on a saw (probably from Lidl's as they have them in presently).

I have watched quite a lot of Peter Millard... and did decide to try and get the Parkside one. I visited Lidl this morning... they did have Parkside kit - but no track saws... so I haven't bought yet. I asked the staff - but they couldn't even say if Lidl either had ever, or would ever, have one in stock. I think I'm in for a time-consuming trawl for something I can order online.
 
the downside with lidl - is if it fails , then all you get is a refund, unlikely to have a replacement , unless it fails in the first few days and still have stock ... if it fails in 3 months then you are back to looking again... I buy quite a few tools - DIYer - from Lidl - But not the power tools , because of the warranty - i had a bench grider and that failed when i needed to use in 2 weeks , and no replacement ....
 
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i had a bench grider and that failed when i needed to use in 2 weeks , and no replacement
Then you go to Screwfix and buy one that is less likely to fail, and will be supported if it does.

I've no problem with the "buy cheap tools" notion, only with the "replace a failed cheap tool with another instance of the same thing". Example: Buy a cheap socket set, probably the crappy ratchet wrench breaks after a year; buy a snap-on ratchet.. You have a socket set where you probably won't bust a socket, and it has a wrench that will last, all for less than the price of a full snap-on set
 
You used an oscillating multi tool to perform a job that, purely by how you describe the job, would have been best done by a grinder?

I occasionally use a diamond blade in an angle grinder but it is extremely dusty.

Provided that the render is not extremely hard, the multitool is fine.

Edit---- typo
 
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My first thought when reads your initial post was "why do you want a track saw, given your stated usage pattern"

Were I you, I'd buy a decent circ saw, not drop it, and use a couple of quick clamps to hold a straight edge onto any work I wanted to track cut. Do a first pass at a shallow depth (1-3mm) before making it deeper, to help avoid the surface breaking out.. If you're cutting woods with a thin blade, make several runs with progressively deeper depths to avoid a wandering cut
I agree - my expected pattern of use does make it more difficult to justify a track saw. Your strategy with a straight edge is exactly what I used to do with my (old and damaged-before-I-got-it) circular saw. It worked 'OK' until it started smoking - but I had several slightly failed cuts... resulting in wasted materials. I was always a little disappointed by the straightness of my cuts... which, despite me trying hard, never quite met my quality expectations for interior work.

My first decision was to buy the cheapest option - a Parkside... from Lidl... Unfortunately, they weren't in stock at my Lidl.

After more research, I eventually decided to order the Draper 57341... as it was available; I've been happy with Draper tools in the past; it doesn't look worse quality, to me, in the pictures; I didn't see self-contradictory specifications where it was advertised... and, I think, I could get extra rails for it cheaply - if, in future... I were to need optimum accuracy for longer cuts. My plan is to take care of it and make it last many years... even if I only use it infrequently. I'm justifying the cost as... if I were to hire a tradesman to do just one of the jobs I have planned, it would cost more than the saw. In a couple of weeks, once it's arrived and I've tackled my first job with it... I'll post back and let you know if I think I made an epic error. :cool:
 
I'll post back and let you know if I think I made an epic error. :cool:

I don't think I made an epic error. The Draper 57341 arrived earlier this week. While I recognise that the depth stop could have been finer - ~1mm teeth on the adjustment are more than sufficient for my purposes. All the adjustments strike me as being solid and dependable. The saw itself is much more substantial and robust than I had imagined for the price I paid. It inspired me to feel confident it'd 'just work' for years - while I didn't get the same impression from the McAllister in B&Q - despite that one being a little bit more expensive. My only disappointment so-far is that there were no clamps for the track included in the package... I had expected it to come with clamps that slot into the under-side of the rail - but there were none in my box.

Cutting P5 sheet floor-board (to replace a damaged one) was trivial - and I'm very happy with the accuracy of my results. The plunge saw (without rails) also made it easy to remove the damaged section of floor - I could have done that with my last-legs circular saw - but, with the plunge saw, I was more confident I wouldn't cause unnecessary additional damage. My accuracy and good results are all down to the tool - my lack of skill was no hindrance to me. I think, with practise, I could get amazing results on more complex projects - perhaps, in years to come, I will.
 

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