OK - I'll try not to confuse the end of the cable with a sherbet fountain....
Ban-all-sheds manufacturing division?
- Thread starter RF Lighting
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OK - I'll try not to confuse the end of the cable with a sherbet fountain....
Curse you, now I need to go find someone who still sells those..
The new plastic tubes are nasty, though. Bring back the cardboard.
It is still an irritant mind. But you are of course wearing latex or similar gloves while working with powdered substances anyway.
MgO cable insulation is an old fashioned remedy for electrician's indigestion.
No - only with the slippery wet ones.But you are of course wearing latex or similar gloves while working with powdered substances anyway.
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Any ideas why here:
http://www.tycothermal.com/europe/english/wiring/literature/PyrotenaxCables_IR200.pdf
it says
Never test a cable which has unsealed ends, because
this will result in false readings.
?
The context is testing cables you've installed, but I'm wondering what the concern is with unsealed ends. Is it just that if you test when you've only done one end you're not allowing for any mistakes you make doing the other end?
9/- for a sherbet fountain???
I'm sure the last one I bought was only 6d.
I wonder if they've also got smaller, like Wagon Wheels have.
Only if we can not bring back them ever being stored in damp conditions so that the sherbet goes all lumpy and won't go through the straw....
I'm sure the last one I bought was only 6d.
I wonder if they've also got smaller, like Wagon Wheels have.
Hmmm....
Only if we can not bring back them ever being stored in damp conditions so that the sherbet goes all lumpy and won't go through the straw....
Anyway - back to the plot.
The cable is a full reel, and one end is (or appears to be) nicely sealed with some kind of glue - the other end has traces of that but most had broken off.
I cut back about 100-150mm from that end and zapped it - got between 25 and 40M core:core and core:sheath.
I'll chop more off and have another go.
The cable is a full reel, and one end is (or appears to be) nicely sealed with some kind of glue - the other end has traces of that but most had broken off.
I cut back about 100-150mm from that end and zapped it - got between 25 and 40M core:core and core:sheath.
I'll chop more off and have another go.
I'm sure you've thought of this, but it would presumably not be wise to chop back that end too many times before attacking t'other end - since there's no telling what may be going on underneath that glue.The cable is a full reel, and one end is (or appears to be) nicely sealed with some kind of glue - the other end has traces of that but most had broken off.
I cut back about 100-150mm from that end and zapped it - got between 25 and 40M core:core and core:sheath.
I'll chop more off and have another go.
Kind regards, John.
Oh indeed - if cutting off another length doesn't show an improvement I'll move to the other end.
I might cut off a m or so next time - I could use that to practice with the tools, glands, pots etc.
The cable has a PVC cover, so I can't try a bit of blow-torching at the end.
I might cut off a m or so next time - I could use that to practice with the tools, glands, pots etc.
The cable has a PVC cover, so I can't try a bit of blow-torching at the end.
I suppose you could try a hair dryer or (carefully!) hot air gun - but I suspect that would carry the risk of making water vapour travel in the direction you don't want, thereby doing harm rather than good!
Kind Regards, John.
I could try it on the m or so I cut off - wouldn't be difficult to remove the PVC jacket.
Might be doing that anyway when I install the stuff - unsure if I want bright red wiring in the shed.
Always assuming that I haven't actually got one of these:
Might be doing that anyway when I install the stuff - unsure if I want bright red wiring in the shed.
Always assuming that I haven't actually got one of these:
A couple of decades ago I acquired (nice elastic word...) a roll of Pyro about 20 yards long that had been lying around, unsealed, for several years in an unheated shed. I used it to run a spur from an FCU to my detached garage. Before I did though, since it was too long, I practised terminating the ends, and Meggered between the live cores. Resistance was only a few hundred kilohms.
I had two big old paraffin blowlamps, so I set them both pointing at the centre of the length of Pyro and gradually moved them apart when the Pyro was red hot, leaving the Megger connected. The IR didn't change until the lamps were within a couple of inches of the ends then suddenly a plume of steam came out for a few minutes then stopped - success, infinite resistance! I'd burned about a gallon of paraffin and wasted an afternnon when all I needed to do was cut a couple of inches off each end!
When I related this to one of the older technicians he told me that the Pyro salesman used to demonstrate the performance of MICC/MIMS by tying a knot in a piece then heating it red-hot and hammering it flat, all with a Megger connected. I didn't believe him till I tried it myself.
I had two big old paraffin blowlamps, so I set them both pointing at the centre of the length of Pyro and gradually moved them apart when the Pyro was red hot, leaving the Megger connected. The IR didn't change until the lamps were within a couple of inches of the ends then suddenly a plume of steam came out for a few minutes then stopped - success, infinite resistance! I'd burned about a gallon of paraffin and wasted an afternnon when all I needed to do was cut a couple of inches off each end!
When I related this to one of the older technicians he told me that the Pyro salesman used to demonstrate the performance of MICC/MIMS by tying a knot in a piece then heating it red-hot and hammering it flat, all with a Megger connected. I didn't believe him till I tried it myself.
Yep we were showh the blowtorch and hammering on a piece of pyro with a megger connected at college.
It's ace cable.
It's ace cable.
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