bathroom pull switch wiring

[Softus]

softus, why would you think its stupid to assume its a light

For two reasons:

1. It's stupid to make any assumption regarding electricity;
2. Since the switch is in a bathroom, if a 45A switch were replaced with a 6A one then there's going to be some melting going on very soon.

...funky monkey said "...prsuming loops to a nother light, and i want to fit a swich that has L1 and L2 and com 1"
The give away being "TO ANOTHER LIGHT"???????

That was not a give away, it was another assumption - just one that funky-monkey made instead of you.

FFS.

 

[funky-monkey]

sorry , didnt reply sooner, it operates a light, im presuming its part of a loop ,both red and black going in and red and blck going out, is there a way of joining two of the wires

 

[Softus]

If the switch were on a loop and operated a light, there would be three blacks and three reds. Ideally (!) there would be earth conductors too.

If you have only two blacks and two reds then it's likely that it's not on a loop, in which case do the following:

. supply red to COM
. supply black to a connector block
. load red to L1
. load black to the connector block

Clearly you should isolate this circuit before making these connections, and screw the switch back in place before testing.

If you're in any doubt, don't do it - engage an electrician instead.

If there is no earth - engage an electrician.

If the bathroom light fitting is the wrong type for the zone it's in - replace it.

 

[RF Lighting]

I can't help thinking that maybe a DP switch was installed for a reason

 

[Softus]

Hm.

funky-money: what is this light fitting, and have you tested that the red is the live and the black is the neutral?

 

[funky-monkey]

its just the pull light switch thats in the bathroom, im just replacing the unit for a better looking one, the whole wiring system in this house is a bit ****ed, so replacing the wiring loop is like polishing a turd, thanks for last instructions, will try it, but herby say i did it of my own free will

 

[funky-monkey]

p.s. it may have had a fan in the ceiling at some point , if that explains the wiring in the switch,

 

[Softus]

Perhaps you misunderstood the questions, so I'll ask in a different way. This time I'll speak in a squeaky and high-pitched voice and stand with my right forefinger up my left nostril:

What is this light fitting, and have you tested that the red is the live and the black is the neutral?

 

[fireman22]

hey softus. i only posted after he said it was a light, so i didnt actually assume anything really, i only said i assume its a light to get him to confirm it. and you have told him to do what i suggested a number of posts before. oh well sometime its better to read and not contribute

 

[Softus]

i only posted after he said it was a light

prsuming loops to a nother light

so i didnt actually assume anything really

i am assuming its feeding a light not a shower

oh well sometime its better to read and not contribute

If you're going pick an argument, do it with someone who can't read - that'll give you a [remote] chance of winning it.

The bottom line is that isn't safe to make any assumptions when a DP switch has been used in a bathroom, and safety is what this is all about.

 

[fireman22]

not arguing, he wrote assume it goes to another light because his post was about a light as it turns out. as i said, i said i assume its a light to get him to confim that it was.

 

[funky-monkey]

it go,s to an ordinary 1 bulb light fitting

 

[funky-monkey]

just looked and the live red go,s to L on supply side and black to N on supply side, other wire isnt live and the other wires red and black are on the other end of block labled load, the red and black on load side arnt live, can i take the load wire out of the light switch and just fit the new light switch with the live feed