Bathroom relocation

Joined
5 Oct 2022
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all,

First of all thank everyone for helping and sharing valuable information.

I am planning on moving the current ensuite bathroom to a difference location within the room and I would like to get some adivise on whether it is possible or not.

In the picture attached, you can see location of the soil pipe and the vent pipe (internal). I would like to move the bathroom to a new location and my first idea is to put a new soil pipe connected directly to the undergoing soil pipe so it is near to the new bathroom location.

Also I would like to put the existing vent pipe hidden in the new partition wall for the new bathroom and use that cavity to fix a wall mounted WC and basin.

The main questions that I have are:

1. Can I have a new soil pipe connected directly to the underground soil pipe rather than connecting it to the existing soil pipe for old bathroom (see pictures attached)

2. Can I hide the vent pipe in the partition wall? If so, how thick should the stud wall be considering I want to have the conceiled WC within the stud wall?

3. The new stud wall would only be secured to a brick wall on the lelf, rest would be ceiling joist and exiting partition wall. Would this be enough to support the weight of a person seating in the wall mount WC?

4. Does the layout of the new bathroom look good? Any suggestions welcome.

Thank you very much for your answers.

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • 20240310_150927 2_1710357331709.jpg
    20240310_150927 2_1710357331709.jpg
    242.9 KB · Views: 47
  • 20240310_150902_1710357337244.jpg
    20240310_150902_1710357337244.jpg
    275 KB · Views: 47
  • 20240310_151001_1710357343788.jpg
    20240310_151001_1710357343788.jpg
    292.1 KB · Views: 42
Sponsored Links
1. Can I have a new soil pipe connected directly to the underground soil pipe rather than connecting it to the existing soil pipe for old bathroom (see pictures attached)
Yes.
2. Can I hide the vent pipe in the partition wall? If so, how thick should the stud wall be considering I want to have the conceiled WC within the stud wall?
Why would you want to do that?
3. The new stud wall would only be secured to a brick wall on the lelf, rest would be ceiling joist and exiting partition wall. Would this be enough to support the weight of a person seating in the wall mount WC?
Probably not it depends tbf.
 
Why would you want to do that?
Basically to keep everything tidy and take the vent pipe to the loft. Honestly I could box it out to the loft outside of the partition wall, but thought that maybe it is a good idea to have thick stud wall to support the wall mounted WC and use that cavity to bring the vent pipe to the loft.
Probably not it depends tbf.
Most of the videos I've watched, the wall mounted is attached to a brick wall, unfortunately this won't work for me, so thinking of have a thicker stud wall to make it more structural sound.
 
Too difficult to tell from photos, although I appreciate you've tried hard to document it.

Main issue would be to make sure you have plenty of rodding access to the soil for clearing blockages once done.

It's the biggest issue with so much drainage work!
 
Sponsored Links
Most of the videos I've watched, the wall mounted is attached to a brick wall, unfortunately this won't work for me, so thinking of have a thicker stud wall to make it more structural sound.

I've done dozens in stud walls.
Buy a decent frame (geberit, grohe, toto etc) and make sure the stud is properly braced when built - decent timber and plenty noggins, and it will be fine.

The fixing between frame and studwork is more important that studwork itself, however, if concerned, use 4x2 not 3x2 studwork.
If possible, try to build the wall on the ground before tilting up to put in situ - this way, stud can be screwed through back of floor and ceiling plates, rather than toe-screwed from within.
 
I've done dozens in stud walls.
Buy a decent frame (geberit, grohe, toto etc) and make sure the stud is properly braced when built - decent timber and plenty noggins, and it will be fine.

The fixing between frame and studwork is more important that studwork itself, however, if concerned, use 4x2 not 3x2 studwork.
If possible, try to build the wall on the ground before tilting up to put in situ - this way, stud can be screwed through back of floor and ceiling plates, rather than toe-screwed from within.
Thank you very much for your responses/advice.

Are all the frames compatible with all toilets? I have checked the Geberit, but there seem to be at least 3/4 options, and not sure what I should buy. Any recommendation? Also, there seems to be a huge variation in price from different suppliers. Could you please let me know any place where I should buy this? PM if you are not allowed to share links.

I assume that a 4x2 wall won't have room to box vent pipe inside right?

With regards to the vent pipe, does it matter where it is placed? Wondering if I could just box it in the corner (see pic attached)
Also, what sort of connection should be used to connect the new soil pipe to the underground pipe?

Thanks for your help, really appreciated it!
 

Attachments

  • Tee Soil Pipe.jpg
    Tee Soil Pipe.jpg
    396.2 KB · Views: 40
  • Vent-Pipe-Relocation.jpg
    Vent-Pipe-Relocation.jpg
    251.3 KB · Views: 31

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top