Bathroom renovation

[Sekai1981]

Hi all,
I have been doing up my bathroom by myself and fitting a toilet vanity unit. Having removed the old toilet, I noticed the water pipe that feeds into the cistern is too long and goes past the height of the vanity unit. The stopcock is about 3inches below the height. I thought of cutting the pipe however need advice on the best position to do this and if it's possible to move stopcock lower. I have attached pics.

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• Sekai1981
• 12 Nov 2013
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• Sekai1981
• 12 Nov 2013
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• Sekai1981
• 12 Nov 2013
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• Sekai1981
• 12 Nov 2013
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• Sekai1981
• 12 Nov 2013
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[Jamesie]

Is that stopcock purely for the toilet? or is it the actual main stopcock?
If purely toilet, I notice theres two pipes running at the back of the toilet, presume hot and cold? could always "T" off the cold at a suitable position, install a service valve and a flexi.

 

[Madrab]

What are you going to use the pipe for? Is it to feed a new toilet? Need to understand where the new toilet inlet is going to be positioned and then the pipe route can be decided.
Yes that pipe can be moved, adjusted, stop cock lowered etc but the mains supply to it will need to be shut off.

 

[Charnwood]

Note to self: engage brain before typing.

 

[Sekai1981]

Thank you all for the responses. I shut off the main water supply when I fitted the sink and bath taps over the weekend (not living in the flat at the moment).
@ Jamesie, yes the stopcock is only for the toilet.

@Madreb, the pipe is to feed water into the new toilet (cisten will be in vanity unit). The toilet vanity unit will be against that wall with the two bottom pipes and waste. The water pipe is running up on the left side of the toilet and bending right to feed water into the hidden cistern. I wouldn’t mind getting rid of the stop cock and replacing with service valve instea. I thought I could cut the pipe just below the stopcock, put a service valve but have a vague idea how to do this (from youtube video's). I saw some push fit pipes, would those do instead of using compression ones? I am a newbie at this so please excuse my ignorance.

 

[longdogs]

just cut the pipe lower and fit a full bore isolation valve (compression). After the isolation valve you can use either copper or plastic pipe (plastic pipe will need inserts)

http://www.screwfix.com/p/22mm-full-bore-isolating-valve/43961

 

[GavThePlumber]

Who planned this all out for you?

 

[Sekai1981]

@ Guvtheplumber, I have been doing it up myself and just trying to update the bathroom by replacing the old stuff.

I went to b&q and saw a 1500cm flexi pipe as attached. I'm thinking of using this with service valve. How do I do the connections or what additional connectors do I need?

Also, I have attached a pic of tap pipes under basin. What connection can I use to connect the copper pipe to tap pipes with female end. Will stop end do :-/

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• Sekai1981
• 12 Nov 2013
• 1

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• Sekai1981
• 12 Nov 2013
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• Sekai1981
• 12 Nov 2013
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Thank u

 

[GavThePlumber]

Your tap tails will go on the iso valves, service valve goes on your toilet inlet

 

[GavThePlumber]

stop end is to cap pipes off

 

[Charnwood]

service valve goes on your toilet inlet

Swivel service valves can go on anything with a thread; tap, ballcock/tap/valve, cistern inlet valve etc.

 

[Madrab]

Pretty straightforward but as it's mains pressure you need to have your wits about you

1. getting rid of the stop cock and replacing with service valve instead. I thought I could cut the pipe just below the stopcock, put a service valve but have a vague idea how to do this (from youtube video's). I saw some push fit pipes, would those do instead of using compression ones?
A) Yes, cut the pipe below the stop cock, clean back the pipe far enough so you can see clean pipe when the push fit connector is fitted. Use a push fit isolator and flexi tap connector to connect to the toilet. They can come in different lengths/designs and not necessarily the toolstation one as it's black and would look out of place, it's just to give you an example.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plu...e+300mm+15mm+x+12+10mm+Bore/d20/sd2807/p30488
2. For your under basin tap flexi pipes You'll need 2 of these to fit onto those bits of copper pipe after the isolator valves, as long as they are standard 1/2" ends on the flexipipes, which they look like they are.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/male-coupler-15mm-x/69358
You may be able to use the nuts and olives that are there, a couple of wraps of PTFE tape round the olives but ideally you would pull the old olives and nuts off the pipes that are there and replace with the new ones. Alternatively you can get these push fit ones -
http://www.plumbase.com/tprod106184/section2502/john-guest-speedfit-coupler-male-15mm-x-12quot.html
Tip: when tightening the basin flexi pipes down, just nip them up, don't overtighten. The rubber sealing washers are easily damaged, finger tight then a 1/4 turn with adjustable will be enough.

 

[Sekai1981]

Thank you all, I have finally fitted the toilet and sink. However, I have a hidden cistern as attached and all seems okay except when I flush, the water doesn't automatically start filling up the cistern, I have to manually do it by pushing something inside it(not sure of the name). Is there something I am supposed to do that I have missed?

Also, the basin has a push click plug however, when I close it, water seems to be sipping through it. There is no leaks under the basin so not sure where it's gone wrong? The rubber on the plug seems to be in place? Help! My DIY project had gone perfectly except for these two things!

 

[Madrab]

More pictures please, show us what you need to push though it sound like it's the float you may be pushing down down?
The click clack plug may be adjustable by screwing it up or down? If so screw it down a little

 

[Sekai1981]

I will post more photos tomorrow when I go to the house. However, yes it is the float I am pushing down then water starts coming into the cistern, however, this is not stopping and then it starts over flowing unless I push it back up myself when it reaches a certain level. I thought its meant to stop by itself. The instruction manual doesn't say much except to screw the inlet valve to required water level. When I screw, the float goes up or down. I'm not sure how to gauge if I have reached the right level.