baxi 105e fault. tried everything and still wont fire up !!
- Thread starter jeffc1970
- Start date
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Work you way back through the sequence to see whats working at what isn't.
Surely the gas valve can be tested by seeing if the voltage remains constant?
Does the signal from APS remain constant? Same goes for flow switches? etc etc.
Surely the gas valve can be tested by seeing if the voltage remains constant?
Does the signal from APS remain constant? Same goes for flow switches? etc etc.
polarity is fine and as fan is opeating this rules out air pressure switches , they have been checked and ruled all the same.
voltage at gas valve is around 19v which according to the techie dept is correct.
im pretty sure any flow problems brings on a warning light , this displays nothing.
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im in a position to try my leads on another boiler and vice versa so will try that this morning once i get over my deafness
jeffc1970
Sorry about your deafness I will not shout so loud next time.
be very careful with the leads on the other boiler
They are not your average bit of copper wire with a pushfit connector crimped on either end.
I think you might find they are strands of cotton??? covered with carbon. Flex an old one too much and you may find you have to buy two sets of leads,
not to mention a few pints and a bunch of flowers as you have disabled your friends boiler for the week end
David
Sorry about your deafness I will not shout so loud next time.
be very careful with the leads on the other boiler
They are not your average bit of copper wire with a pushfit connector crimped on either end.
I think you might find they are strands of cotton??? covered with carbon. Flex an old one too much and you may find you have to buy two sets of leads,
not to mention a few pints and a bunch of flowers as you have disabled your friends boiler for the week end
David
jeffc1970
Sorry about your deafness I will not shout so loud next time.
be very careful with the leads on the other boiler
They are not your average bit of copper wire with a pushfit connector crimped on either end.
I think you might find they are strands of cotton??? covered with carbon. Flex an old one too much and you may find you have to buy two sets of leads,
not to mention a few pints and a bunch of flowers as you have disabled your friends boiler for the week end
David
at the risk of being shouted at again
the techie guy at Baxi reckons it should have run with the white lead disconected local place doesnt have a lead in stock
is there a voltage check that can be done on the lead jeffc1970
If the white wire goes to the spark electrode and looks like copper then you only have to worry about the flame sensing cable.
without writing an essay on flame rectification (look it up on goggle)
the pcb sends a very low current down the lead through the flame sensing electrode down the flame to earth.
the pcb will know this is taking place and will open the main gas valve.
there are only three things in the circuit.............
you said you had changed pcb and electrode, process of elimination must be lead to flame sensor.
To answer your question, other than swaping leads I do not know how you could test them. I do know that the voltage in an average multimeter is too high even at 1.5 volts. so the lead has to be in tip top condition, hence the warning on my last post. disturb the lead or pull it off by grabbing the lead and its NLS.
David
If the white wire goes to the spark electrode and looks like copper then you only have to worry about the flame sensing cable.
without writing an essay on flame rectification (look it up on goggle)
the pcb sends a very low current down the lead through the flame sensing electrode down the flame to earth.
the pcb will know this is taking place and will open the main gas valve.
there are only three things in the circuit.............
you said you had changed pcb and electrode, process of elimination must be lead to flame sensor.
To answer your question, other than swaping leads I do not know how you could test them. I do know that the voltage in an average multimeter is too high even at 1.5 volts. so the lead has to be in tip top condition, hence the warning on my last post. disturb the lead or pull it off by grabbing the lead and its NLS.
David
nothing has been working perfect for around 6 years on lpg.
anyway Ive swapped the white lead onto pals boiler and no different and vice versa ,and for future reference his boiler runs fine with the flame sensing lead disconnected ..
many thanks for those that have contributed to this thread but enough is enough after a aweek with a twisty wife and 3 kids having cold showers/no heating and me spendinghours on phonecalls and hassle and Ive admitted defeat and gone and bought a new boiler this morning hopefully getting it fitted this afternoon and hope it is a relative straight swap, its a he version of what I have and baxi reckon the jets will swap over.
if anyone else has had this problem I would be very intersted as would my heating engineer pal on wtf the fault is
why didnt you just do what i did told the customer to get baxi out on a fixed payment think it was £300 pound they fix it no matter what and guarantee for a year
its done now, brand new HE fitted got it trade through a palso only £399 plus vat, old boiler going on ebay tonight, will do for spares for someone, after all all the components in it are 100% checked and working so shoud have a value to someone
obviously not all the "components in it are 100% checked and working" or the boiler would work!!!
yep you are right but all the usual suspects that go wrong have been checked so hopefully someone will have a use for it
should be an easy fix for a reistered Corgi Engineer as someone has allready suggested
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