BAXI 105e overflow

[theDIYkid]

Hi,

Can anyone help

My BAXI 105e is letting water escape thru the overflow outside even though the pressure is only set to 1.5 bar?

Do you need to set the PRV a level when it overflows or is this automatic?

Thanks
Dan

 

[Terry lambert]

The PRV may have a bit of grit in it. Your pressure should be set to about 1 bar cold, and this will rise as the system gets hot. If the pressure is fluctuating from low to high rapidly then your expansion vessel may need re charging

The PRV will be set to open at three bar.

You could try manually opening the PRV and opening the filling loop to try to wash it through, or sometimes just giving it a few turns open and shut may stop it.

If this doesn't work, you may need to change the head or whole PRV. It should be looked at to see why it failed in the first place

 

[Terry lambert]

The PRV is spring loaded

 

[theDIYkid]

Hi

Yeah I just held it to the right and it drops so assuming the water is going outside as expected. The PRV red dial is slack and you can set it full right or full left (does that matter)?

You could try manually opening the PRV and opening the filling loop to try to wash it through, or sometimes just giving it a few turns open and shut may stop it.

I did what you suggested and it does release the flow and drops the pressure, held left on spring then let go and that works ok...how do you set the PRV to 3 bar, could it be the PRV is set to 1 bar thats why its overflowing?? can the PRV be reset?

Thanks
Much appreciated.
Dan

 

[Terry lambert]

You don't set the PRV, they are pre set.

You can take the head out after isolating and draining the boiler and then clean the seating, it has some debri in it, stopping it from setting properly.

I would suggest getting someone in, unless you are handy

 

[theDIYkid]

I just pulled it more left and it released the flow as expected then it sprung back into place, are you saying it still may have grime in? so even at 1 bar water can be released if there is grime? If I drain the boiler and turn off the in/out valves underneath I can take the PRV head out and clean, does that sound good?

Would that stop the boiler from starting? when I start it up it doesn't fire up?
there is also some water coming from the AAV automatic air vent.

I can hear the pump hum and listening close I hear it spin slowly but thats all it does then the pressure/ pump warning light comes on...I retry and one out of 25 tries it may fire up.
Thanks

 

[Terry lambert]

What is the pressure gauge saying at the moment, and is the pressure relief pipe still passing water outside

 

[Terry lambert]

Thinking this through, I think you should get an engineer in.

If you use the isolators underneath the boiler, they may leak, although I'm trying to be helpful, i may be digging you a bigger hole.

It may pay you to get someone in to service the boiler. They will then see why the PRV opened in the first place, and clean the seating or replace the PRV.

 

[theDIYkid]

1 bar and no drops coming out of overflow although wet from before...I hear it humming and seems that its going to fire up but nothing, think its a coincidence but sometimes when I bleed a RAD it kicks in but there is not much air coming out the RADS.

 

[theDIYkid]

Ok mate so you think it could well be the PRV...I will get someone in but the fear is they change parts and its not the part that was faulty...but guess thats the only way.

Thanks for all your help appreciate it..

Dan

 

[Terry lambert]

Okay, it might be air locked. At least the PRV has stopped running

Bleed all of the rads. Did you shut any of the isolators under the boiler?

 

[theDIYkid]

I drained the system other day to fit a RAD valve, so emptied the boiler too as I did not shut off the isolators under the boiler, I should say it was doing the same thing before I bled the system...so are you saying bleed all RADS after isolating the boiler by turning the 3 levers off first? so leaving the pressure in the boiler contained? then bleed RADS and try again?
Thanks

 

[Terry lambert]

Nooooo! Don't touch the isolators.

Bleed the rads first and try again, if not

You could try undoing the vent on the front of the pump to see if it's spinning, or if it needs a little spin with a screw driver ( if it's seized)

You could run a hose from the draincock to out side, open, and open the filling loop a bit to try and clear an air lock. Don't let the pressure get too high though.

 

[Terry lambert]

What's the system water quality like, is it dirty ?

 

[theDIYkid]

Already removed big screw from front of pump and used screw driver to spin pump so its not stuck. athough its a low hum I need to stick ear to hear it run slow. I released some pressure by unscrewing slightly too.

You could run a hose from the draincock to out side, open, and open the filling loop a bit to try and clear an air lock.

agh right feed the drain out to outside then slwoly fill to pass thru the flow...not tried that?

So I should never turn the in/out isolators off when draining the system heating then, I thought you could do that to avoid losing the water in the boiler and also when work is carried out when changing parts...

If I bleed the RADS it means having to fill up again and again until happy RADS are bled. Im getting water now on RADS no air, only small hisses now and then.