It also doesn’t help the opBernard, you are digging a hole deeper, stop
You need to read what you are writing. Lot of stuff in your post is based on supposition.
Changing from a simple ON-OFF mechanical thermostat to an "intelligent" multi-function timer/thermostat/remote controller is not a case of remove old and connect new.
The old thermostat would have switched the control line from the boiler with a robust mechanically operated switch. The new multi-function controller may have a small compact relay whose contacts may be operating at their limits of voltage and/or current switching capacity.
Do boiler manufacturer's data sheets include any details of the current that flows through the boiler's control inputs ? This is the current that the relay in the controller has to switch ON and OFF.
Method of switching makes above irrelevant when boiler control is concerned. To think of above is overcomplicating the issue when an on/ off switch would suffice, be it then the boiler control becomes manual (in fact a lot of elderly folk just switch the boiler on manually and switch it off when they get to hot- an on/ off switch plate would be more at home with such users so capacitance, resistance, reactance, switch spikes are of no importance)Resistive......no transient effects on the contacts in the controller
Capacitive....high inrush current when the contacts in the controller close, transient current overload and heating damaging contact surface coating
Inductive.....high voltage spikes when the contacts in the controller open, transient arcing and erosion of contact surfaces
Do manufacturers of multi-function controllers provide details of what the contacts in the relays can actually switch without creating excessive wear to the contact surfaces ?
If that data is available then does the person selecting the new multi-function controller have the technical skill to determine if the relay in the multi-function controller is compatible with the load that it has to switch ?.
Lot of stuff in your post is based on supposition.
230 V on bk1 via the Nest without 230 V on bk2 could result result in higher than expected current through the relay contacts in the Nest.
Bernard, wiring the boiler like your example would make some of the circuitry within the boiler live when 2 pole isolator on the control panel in in the off position.
Might I suggest this be started as a new separate thread Gentlemen so as not to confuse the heck out of OP as they’ll get a notification of each post.
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