baxi barcelona problems
- Thread starter smiffyuk
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That was directed at you as much as anyone else.
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Have been following this thread with interest. While there are some weaknesses in what Trobro writes (especially suggesting what a householder could do), he has hit the nail on a number of points.
How many regulars go where Trobro suggests should be visited
Was expecting Baxipot to put pen to 'paper' and impart some solid knowledge as to why Trobro is well out of date with his information. Surely, it cannot be denied that seals mentioned do not fail, combustion chamber seal can be poor, combustion chamber base plate can have sediment that can impede condensate flow.
Would be interested in positive feedback, perhaps on CC if these pages are deemed to be wrong for posting of rgi sensitive info.
How many regulars go where Trobro suggests should be visited
Was expecting Baxipot to put pen to 'paper' and impart some solid knowledge as to why Trobro is well out of date with his information. Surely, it cannot be denied that seals mentioned do not fail, combustion chamber seal can be poor, combustion chamber base plate can have sediment that can impede condensate flow.
Would be interested in positive feedback, perhaps on CC if these pages are deemed to be wrong for posting of rgi sensitive info.
To DP
Interesting post, I think that unless you're very sure of what you are doing, gas is best left well alone. I do have a friend who is CORGI registerd and a few years ago I did watch him do some work on the boiler. In fact we diagnosed the fault together which was sludge in the system impeding the water flow. He also fitted a higher capacity pump.
I think perhaps my original screed is best given to a plumber/heating engineer as some of the problems mentioned can be intermittent, and can only be diagnosed over a period of time and it might help the plumber to know what to replace first.
Anway thanks very much for your post.
Best regards. Trevor
Interesting post, I think that unless you're very sure of what you are doing, gas is best left well alone. I do have a friend who is CORGI registerd and a few years ago I did watch him do some work on the boiler. In fact we diagnosed the fault together which was sludge in the system impeding the water flow. He also fitted a higher capacity pump.
I think perhaps my original screed is best given to a plumber/heating engineer as some of the problems mentioned can be intermittent, and can only be diagnosed over a period of time and it might help the plumber to know what to replace first.
Anway thanks very much for your post.
Best regards. Trevor
Best laugh i have had all day. Your friend is CORGI Registered. Tell him good luck with that as I'm happy being Gas Safe Registered. I would love to see you explain yourself in front of a magistrate as to being an electronics engineer and being mechanically interested led you down the path to seriously hurting / killing someone. Forget the ACS examinations every 5 years, Gas Safe Registration every year, British Standards, Manufacturers Instructions, Gas installation and Use Regulations 1998............ when i was 14 i did a electronics module at school so i am all ready qualified to work on gas appliances. All that money i have wasted over the years. The 5 year apprenticeship I feel like a fool.
Stick to the electronics pal and leave the safety critical work the RGI engineers before you kill someone.
I have alerted the mods to this post.......your advocating a non competant individual to carry out gas work......stop it before you kill someone
here we go
1) "If you decide to service your boiler yourself, it is a good idea to get a new rubber seal that fits round the heat exchanger/combustion box base, and a new combustion chamber cover seal"
Seals are re usable and you need to be RGI to break the seal let alone replace!
2) "To start with, switch off the electrical supply to the boiler (it is not good enough just to switch the timer off, as the boiler will still have mains on it). Turn off the gas supply to the boiler. "
Why turn off the gas supply? the zero govenor gas valve won't open if there is no power supply. Where are your electrical checks?? positive isolation? earth continuity? resistance to earth? polarity? fuse rating?
3) "Before removing the combustion chamber cover, arrange a hook to support it, as there are wires on it and it is not advisable to let the cover hang on the wires. "
personally i just remove the spade connectors from the electrodes. Safes me using a "hook"
4) "Clean the tray thoroughly along with the condensate trap, which has a removable lid. "
Condensate trap has a removable lid? i suppose you glue it back on afterwards?
5) "I’m pretty sure that the howling or trumpeting sounds are caused by the seal between the lower tray of the combustion chamber and the main body being leaky owing to corrosion of the mating surfaces. It may require a suitable sealant to ensure an airtight seal. "
more like the is sediment in the heat exchanger water ways or the gas valve is partially blocked
6) "Nothing that has been done should have compromised the integrity of the gas carrying parts so there should be no leaks. Nevertheless it is good practice to check for leaks, so turn the gas supply on and listen and sniff around for any leaks. It is highly unlikely that any will be found, but if a leak is suspected, test with soapy water. If a leak is found, turn off the supply and contact a registered gas fitter. As stated before, a leak is extremely unlikely but it is best to be safe. "
omg lets break this one down
a) you have compromised the integrity of the gas carrying parts but removing the gas pipe from the gas valve to the fan venturi. 2 gas joints. 2 breaches of the law.
b) listen and sniff for leaks????????? i won't even go there
c) use soapy water? LDF is non corrosive. Soapy water is
7) "switch the power back on and turn the gas on"
turning the gas back on to the appliance. Where from? if it is at the gas valve isolation cock then you need to ldf. Is it is from the meter? Then you need to be RGI to re establish a supply.
"The flame should be a blue colour and the top of the burner will be glowing red"
looking for a blue flame on a premixed burner????? Doesn't matter what the colour is pal. Try using a gas analisyer to check if the CO/CO2 are through the roof after your cowboy service.
"Hopefully, lockout and howling will now be things of the past"
I agree as you will be 6ft under
Not one mention of safe isolation, working pressures, Gas Rate, CO/CO2 ratio.
See my above post
1) "If you decide to service your boiler yourself, it is a good idea to get a new rubber seal that fits round the heat exchanger/combustion box base, and a new combustion chamber cover seal"
Seals are re usable and you need to be RGI to break the seal let alone replace!
2) "To start with, switch off the electrical supply to the boiler (it is not good enough just to switch the timer off, as the boiler will still have mains on it). Turn off the gas supply to the boiler. "
Why turn off the gas supply? the zero govenor gas valve won't open if there is no power supply. Where are your electrical checks?? positive isolation? earth continuity? resistance to earth? polarity? fuse rating?
3) "Before removing the combustion chamber cover, arrange a hook to support it, as there are wires on it and it is not advisable to let the cover hang on the wires. "
personally i just remove the spade connectors from the electrodes. Safes me using a "hook"
4) "Clean the tray thoroughly along with the condensate trap, which has a removable lid. "
Condensate trap has a removable lid? i suppose you glue it back on afterwards?
5) "I’m pretty sure that the howling or trumpeting sounds are caused by the seal between the lower tray of the combustion chamber and the main body being leaky owing to corrosion of the mating surfaces. It may require a suitable sealant to ensure an airtight seal. "
more like the is sediment in the heat exchanger water ways or the gas valve is partially blocked
6) "Nothing that has been done should have compromised the integrity of the gas carrying parts so there should be no leaks. Nevertheless it is good practice to check for leaks, so turn the gas supply on and listen and sniff around for any leaks. It is highly unlikely that any will be found, but if a leak is suspected, test with soapy water. If a leak is found, turn off the supply and contact a registered gas fitter. As stated before, a leak is extremely unlikely but it is best to be safe. "
omg lets break this one down
a) you have compromised the integrity of the gas carrying parts but removing the gas pipe from the gas valve to the fan venturi. 2 gas joints. 2 breaches of the law.
b) listen and sniff for leaks????????? i won't even go there
c) use soapy water? LDF is non corrosive. Soapy water is
7) "switch the power back on and turn the gas on"
turning the gas back on to the appliance. Where from? if it is at the gas valve isolation cock then you need to ldf. Is it is from the meter? Then you need to be RGI to re establish a supply.
"The flame should be a blue colour and the top of the burner will be glowing red"
looking for a blue flame on a premixed burner????? Doesn't matter what the colour is pal. Try using a gas analisyer to check if the CO/CO2 are through the roof after your cowboy service.
"Hopefully, lockout and howling will now be things of the past"
I agree as you will be 6ft under
Not one mention of safe isolation, working pressures, Gas Rate, CO/CO2 ratio.
See my above post
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