Baxi Bermuda Help
- Thread starter rederech
- Start date
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Well it seems that something has gone wrong, assuming the fire used to pass. It needs a full independent, disinterested test.
The flue they gave us for ACS tests worked fine, but you still got a black mark if you passed it cos they'd stuffed something up it!
The flue they gave us for ACS tests worked fine, but you still got a black mark if you passed it cos they'd stuffed something up it!
ball of prs 10 in the one i got 
The fire is only 5 years old and I asked the engineer why the Boiler
passed and the fire did'nt.
He explained that the fire joined the flue at an angle therefore needing
more suction. The boiler is directly in line with the flue needing less.
Got to thank ChrisR as well sorry.
My head is sore thinking about it and the last 2 nights have been sleepless.
Cheers everyone.
passed and the fire did'nt.
He explained that the fire joined the flue at an angle therefore needing
more suction. The boiler is directly in line with the flue needing less.
Got to thank ChrisR as well sorry.
My head is sore thinking about it and the last 2 nights have been sleepless.
Cheers everyone.
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namsag
Your boiler is 15 years old so it is either a 552 or a 401 in the top of the flue hood where the flue liner joins the appliance there should be a flue restrictor ring 5inches round that if flue fails to pass spillage test this ring can be removed to assist flue pull. So before appliance was turned off test should have been done with this removed.
I woulkd go to Hamilton and carry out the test, but I would charge for travelling to Hamilton.
I still thing you are being lead by the nose as selling you a new boiler is the prime motive.
Cannot see how a fire front can suddenly fail. Furthermore cannot visualise how a fire can be at an angle and has not failed previously and suddenly does now.
Get someone else to carry out the test. Make sure you inspect their CORGI card at the back for what he is able to work on.
Doitall- many thanks for info provided. One happy LPG lady now able to feed her family off a cooker and no longer reliant on microwaves.
I still thing you are being lead by the nose as selling you a new boiler is the prime motive.
Cannot see how a fire front can suddenly fail. Furthermore cannot visualise how a fire can be at an angle and has not failed previously and suddenly does now.
Get someone else to carry out the test. Make sure you inspect their CORGI card at the back for what he is able to work on.
Doitall- many thanks for info provided. One happy LPG lady now able to feed her family off a cooker and no longer reliant on microwaves.
They will fail the spillge check if the fire front isn't pushed between the markers on the base far enough....I would check the burner on the fire aswell these always crack and distort and may well affect spillage.
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What everyone has failed to mention is wether the annular space at the bottom of the chimney is sealed, if it aint and the chimney is leaking through it's joints and causing a pull up the outside of the liner, the boiler may pass a smoke and spillage test, BUT when the fire front is fitted and the opening is restricted the pull at the builders opening could be greater than inside the liner, this can cause the fire to spill and also pull the flames off the fire burner, but realistically I just think BG is trying it on by testing on the wrong side of the fire and want to sell you a new boiler, tell em to fek off and get a proper firm on the job.
Don't know what others would do here but if the boiler passed and the fire didn't I would isolate the fire at the valve underneath take the control knob off and stash it in the fire casing, label the fire up and leave the boiler in use.
I'd be interested to know if the fire smoke tested ok with more ventilation. I noted the point that more ventilation is a problem but I cant see it being unsurmountable.
I'd like to back the others up here in saying that your boiler is worth keeping and running into the ground. Here's something to think about. Just do a few sums. Say for arguments sake that your yearly gas bill is £500 and a new condenser will save you 30% Thats £150 a year. 10 yrs = £1500
Say as well that it would cost a debatable £2000 for a replacement combi and powerflush
Over 10 years you are already £500 quid out of pocket.
Over the period a combi would probably go through a pcb, a diverter valve, a couple of thermistors and a fan and maybe a pump or PRV. I'm trying not to go OTT when I suggest a conservative figure of £600
In the same time expect a new gas valve and a burner or two for the fire on your existing set up allow say £300 max
Now when you are looking at that hole in the wall where your baxi used to be theres a hole which will cost about another £500 to fill with a nice gas fire and marble hearth.
Prices vary a lot depending on where you live and who you get to do the work, so the figures I have quoted are arbitrary and look towards the minumum saving of £130 a year over 10 years Throw your own figures in and see what it comes out at.
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ollski the cause has not been found but was advised to have flue checked.
As in my original post all directions point to flue fault.
Flue check cost £60 plus vat. then if needed
New flue £420 plus vat.
There is no saying that this will cure the problem and it may be that I would be better off investing in a new back boiler system and fire.
Will have to think about things.
Cheers
As in my original post all directions point to flue fault.
Flue check cost £60 plus vat. then if needed
New flue £420 plus vat.
There is no saying that this will cure the problem and it may be that I would be better off investing in a new back boiler system and fire.
Will have to think about things.
Cheers
Flue (flexible liner) looks suspect. Flue pull, while adequate, would suggest internal obstruction effecting spillage test. Copex termination at the back boiler looks like it is 100mm. Liner is 5"
The gas was capped off at the boiler. This was reinstated to carry out tests. At the end of the tests, I could not get a gas tight seal at the cap. The capnut (existing) and the stop end cap (fitted by the installer) had different tread pitch. 3' spanners would not have resulted in a gas tight seal. Pipe was cut back and new stop end fitted.
The termination looked black as if there was evidence of soot.
Might only be a case of sweeping the copex.
The gas was capped off at the boiler. This was reinstated to carry out tests. At the end of the tests, I could not get a gas tight seal at the cap. The capnut (existing) and the stop end cap (fitted by the installer) had different tread pitch. 3' spanners would not have resulted in a gas tight seal. Pipe was cut back and new stop end fitted.
The termination looked black as if there was evidence of soot.
Might only be a case of sweeping the copex.
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