Bay window roofing lead detached from wall. Help tips on how to make better job

[Notch7]

All,

I guess to finish the render I need something like this

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www.travisperkins.co.uk

Better plastic or galvanized?

Thanks

I dont think a bead will help you -they are designed to be fixed in place before rendering and the render is applied over the bead part with the holes in



Ive just had a look at the pic taken further back showing the whole run.....it looks to me like you just need to cut a chase with an angle grinder and diamond disc.

you dont need to do anything with the render above your cut line, but below it you might want to take off the pebbledash and possibly screw in a timber batten -so there is something nice and flat for the lead to rest against - if you leave the pebbledash and dress the lead over it, its going to look awfully bumpy.

ideally you need to cut your groove deep enough so that is cuts into the blockwork

 

[Jonny Vee]

I dont think a bead will help you -they are designed to be fixed in place before rendering and the render is applied over the bead part with the holes in



Ive just had a look at the pic taken further back showing the whole run.....it looks to me like you just need to cut a chase with an angle grinder and diamond disc.

you dont need to do anything with the render above your cut line, but below it you might want to take off the pebbledash and possibly screw in a timber batten -so there is something nice and flat for the lead to rest against - if you leave the pebbledash and dress the lead over it, its going to look awfully bumpy.

ideally you need to cut your groove deep enough so that is cuts into the blockwork

Just to recap.

I'm keen to remove the existing crap job and make it from scratch.

My plan is to order new code 4 300mm lead and drip beading.

Today it's raining but when will be dry I was thinking to remove the old lead and crappy mortar repair. put the new lead am maximum 1500mm lenght and overlap 100 each other. Push the lead inside the wall to touch the bricks and nail it down. Then install the drip bead and redone the render trying o match the pebbledash as at moment look crap.

Would you do something different? any tips is welcomed as always.

Thanks

 

[Jonny Vee]

Any comment on what I'm thinking to do. Do I'm doing it right?

 

[noseall]

Just to recap.

I'm keen to remove the existing crap job and make it from scratch.

My plan is to order new code 4 300mm lead and drip beading.

Today it's raining but when will be dry I was thinking to remove the old lead and crappy mortar repair. put the new lead am maximum 1500mm lenght and overlap 100 each other. Push the lead inside the wall to touch the bricks and nail it down. Then install the drip bead and redone the render trying o match the pebbledash as at moment look crap.

Would you do something different? any tips is welcomed as always.

Thanks

It needs an upstand of (ideally) 150mm, though a wee bit less is ok and then chasing into the mortar joint (25mm), clipping and sealing with Leadmate and the bead locating so that it overhangs the joint.

 

[Jonny Vee]

Would this be a clean job? Completely different to what they have done previously.

Please advise if not understanding it wrong.

my other neighbour also have mortar coming down to the bottom end but not sure the part on top of the lead how is holding together.

Apologies fir the stupid questions but never done this before. Want make a decent and long lasting job.

Thanks

 

[^woody^]

It does not need a 150 upstand as its a sloped roof and rendered, so it could go back at the same level. There's no need to create extra work.

It does need tidying up, and be aware of all the usual requirements - deep enough clean chase, suitable plugging for fixing the lead, suitable code of lead, max lengths of single piece plus minimum overlap.

If you want bonus points, fit a render stop/bellcast bead above the lead.

 

[Jonny Vee]

It does not need a 150 upstand as its a sloped roof and rendered, so it could go back at the same level. There's no need to create extra work.

It does need tidying up, and be aware of all the usual requirements - deep enough clean chase, suitable plugging for fixing the lead, suitable code of lead, max lengths of single piece plus minimum overlap.

If you want bonus points, fit a render stop/bellcast bead above the lead.

I got code 4 300mm wide lead and stainless stop beading. I was not sure how to fix the lead and beading to the wall. Shall I use standard wall plug and screw to fix the lead and beading to the wall or there is something more specific?

About overlapping other member suggested maximum 1500mm and minium 100mm overlapp.

I'm getting there if can sort out how to fix it to the wall

Thanks

 

[^woody^]

Beading can be fixed with some masonry nails or screwed and plugged. The render will hold most of it

For the lead use something like www.toolstation.com/lead-flashing-clips-applicator-tool/p18578 or read up on lead plugging at https://slateroofers.org/downloads/lead_flashing_guide.pdf

 

[noseall]

o it could go back at the same level.

It hasn't got ANY upstand, at that level. Any ex/con with directly affect the mortar joint and likely tear.

 

[Notch7]

It hasn't got ANY upstand, at that level. Any ex/con with directly affect the mortar joint and likely tear.

That’s a good point