Bedroom - humidity

[shaunc83]

Thanks for all of the replies.

Keeping the upstairs bedroom doors open has definitely helped to keep the place warm. I haven't checked the roof insulation yet but will do this weekend. The walls are solid brick - this is a typical cheap Midlands two up two down terraced house...

The condensation was ok (ish) for a few days but it's back as much as ever with the subzero temperatures. Especially as my partner has been staying so two people exhaling moisture. The plasterboard above and on the side of window got damp again after one night.

Having looked at the window from outside it looke as though there may be a gap in the seel between the window and stone lintel. I'll see if I can get someone to check this out - photo unloaded into my gallery.

I'll also look at dehumidifiers.

Thanks again
Shaun






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[shaunc83]

Untitled

• shaunc83
• 21 Jan 2014
• 1

Untitled

• shaunc83
• 21 Jan 2014
• 1

 

[lillianhofstader]

Why don't you make use of an Exause fan..

 

[shaunc83]

Why don't you make use of an Exause fan..

I have one fitted in the bathroom already and it helps, but I don't want the noise in the bedroom at night. (I'm a light sleeper.)

I'll look at getting a dehumidifier, and see if that helps.

 

[AronSearle]

I don't think more extraction fans will help, considering real world living habits.

The window is poor, and is fitted within the brick skin in a way that will allow cold bridging all around it, which is why you get condensation on the plasterboard surround.

You would have to leave the window open a fraction almost permantly to avoid condensation.

You could fit some deep plastic surrounds to the plasterboard butting up to the window, using mastic to seal the junction between the wall and window. This will not stop condensation, but if it happens on the plastic surface it's easier to clean or wipe off. You could also try some thin vapour resistant insulant as wallpaper on the window surround, it *might* just raise the surface temperature enough to reduce condensation appreaciativly.

Insulation backed plasterboard will also help, your walls will lose a lot of heat, it will have the benifit of increasing temperatures overall, and avoiding condensation on the wall.

 

[Flyboytim]

Except for newer builds, UPVC double glazing has replaced some earlier glazing solution - timber or metal framed - and the surveys that determine the size of the glazing units produced are often very inaccurate. The guys who fit the windows will fit what they are given for the job, however much packing is required. Whatever gaps are left are covered with UPVC cladding strips and fillets to make the job look better.

Poorly installed UPVC windows often have a void all the way around them due to inadequate amounts of insulation (which should usually be injected expanding polyurethane foam) at the time of fitting. Any cavities and loose brickwork are covered by the frame, and perhaps foam, silicone or mortar.

In effect, there may be nothing between the inside and outside but 5 mm of UPVC cladding and some silicone sealant, mortar or a dab of foam.

Thus the metal skeleton of the UPC framework forms a cold core and the whole window frame conducts heat to the outside, is cold and wet, and chills the internal reveal of the window.

If a section of the cladding is removed, either internally or externally where present, the extent of the gap may be demonstrated.

I wonder how many window installations would be condemned today if they had to be inspected by a GGF or FENSA, or an independent official?

If this problem is the case here, do you go back to the firm who did the installation? Are any "guarantees" transferable to subsequent owners of the property? Can you make a claim against them, if they refuse to investigate or put things right within a reasonable timeframe? Do the glazing federations have any power to get things done when their members have done a poor job?

If I had the problem I would probably inspect by removing any uPVC strip or fillet held on with silicone, probing any mastic or mortar fillets or infills with an old screwdriver or similar probe. If the seal disappeared into a void then there is a problem. Polyurethane foam may not be the answer - it may just fall into some bottomless cavity that should not be there, but nevertheless does exist. It can be an expensive experiment. "Sausages" made of glass wool insulation strips loosely packed in polythene bags can be fed into voids to prefill the voids before completing the job with expanding filler is a cheaper alternative, finishing off by using smaller amounts of expanded foam, and replacing the fascias etc.

In my view, increasing air circulation is at least as important as ventilation. By placing a desktop type fan - unheated - so that it blows warm air from the room directly at the window, the glass and frame, and the reveals will warm up to room temperature, and therefore will not attract condensation - the same can be said for any condensation - even kitchens and bathrooms. Circulate the air and the condensation will lessen, and damp areas will dry, warm up, and become less likely to attract further dampness.

 

[joesoap1]

Hi there.

I know this topic has been covered a number of times, but...

I am getting a LOT of condensation on my bedroom window at the moment overnight where it's cold out. Some of the plaster around the window is also getting damp, and some mould has started to form. I leave the window open slightly (on the ventilation latch, whatever it's called) during the day.

The bedroom is approx 3.6m x 3.5m x 2.55m with a window area of 1.7m2. There is loft insulation above (maybe could do with some more) and there is a single radiator (600x900). However, it never gets really warm in the bedroom so I suspect this is the problem. The heating is on for an hour in the morning and about 2.5 hours in the evening, which keeps the lounge/kitchen warm, but upstairs doesn't get as warm.

I am going to take a look at the loft insulation, but also thinking of upgrading to a double radiator. Do you think this would help with the condensation? What about looking at insulating the jambs to help prevent damp plaster?

I would appreciate any opinions.

Regards,
Shaun

Hi Shaun, I too suffer with condensation, and some houses it,s just inherrent.
I,ve had it for 19 years in this house, and the same with my last house.
I,ve got up to date insulation, Double glazing, a mixture of new and old, dehumidifyer,(too dear to run now), cheaper to leave heating on.
tried everything, it,s that time of year.
Every time temp drops, windows steam up, and I have 15, large ones, 3 french doors, all top of the range, extractor fans, you name it, I,ve got it, but, even having the CH on since september,all day, it,s still there, everynight, when temp drops, every year.Live with it.Cavity wall insulation will make it worse, it makes windows an even colder spot.
There is no way to eliminate it, just reduce it, but drying clothes in the house is a NONO, at all.I leave my windows on the latch at night,, this does stop it, it,s the only way in my house.There is the odd one that doesn,t, windows are the coldest spot in any room, hence condensation.Humidity builds up during the day, cooking etc, and hits the window at night.
Next door gets none.
It,s just bad luck, and you can only try to reduce it, but in a bedroom, it,s worse because of your breathing at night,we breathe out a litre of water an hour which has to go somewhere, if doors closed, leave it open.
I have to wipe them every morning
Anyone who invents a cure for it, will be a millionaire overnight,and if they say they can , they are lying, it,s the law of physics.