Not difficult to file off with a smoothe file ,and abrasive strip to give a fine finish. Take care not to overdo it with the file and deform the pipe.
Why not use a compression fitting ?
Everything I have read about compression fittings states that they should only be used where they can be accessed, whereas in my case the fitting would be underneath a tiled floor.
I have attended a lot of leaks on push fit joints over the years ,some involving serious leakage and water damage ,including plastic fittings cracked in two. I can't say the same thing about compression fittings.
My own preference is to use copper pipes and soldered fittings .
I have attended a lot of leaks on push fit joints over the years ,some involving serious leakage and water damage ,including plastic fittings cracked in two. I can't say the same thing about compression fittings.
My own preference is to use copper pipes and soldered fittings .
OK, thanks for confirming.
Final question if i may, I know you’re supposed to use copper olives when connecting plastic pipes with a compression fitting, but none of my local merchants have 10 mm copper olives (just brass) and the main source seems to be eBay or Amazon. Having purchased previously from eBay, the ones that arrived were really difficult to get on the plastic pipe and we’re actually shaving a bit of the plastic off, which can’t be right!
I would have thought that 10 mm copper olives are widely used (e.g reducers for TRVs) and so i don’t understand why they are seemingly only available online!? I also prefer to buy branded stuff, but the only available ones are the generic type.
I don't think it makes the slightest bit of difference brass or copper olives will work just the same.
The most important things when using compression fittings on plastic pipes is not to overtighten,especially on smaller pipe diameters, and of course the correct pipe stiffener inserted inside the plastic pipe.
I don't think it makes the slightest bit of difference brass or copper olives will work just the same.
The most important things when using compression fittings on plastic pipes is not to overtighten,especially on smaller pipe diameters, and of course the correct pipe stiffener inserted inside the plastic pipe.
Hmm, you make some interesting points there that I hadn’t even considered and I’m grateful for your input.
Due to limited space I cannot go above 1000mm (h) x 500(w) and the output from the better ones will be very similar to the DQ Zante (as shown) i.e around 1350 BTUs; similar to original panel rad. I guess what do you are alluding to though is that whilst a larger rail may only have the same heat output as my smaller one, less of it will be covered with towels and so the room will feel warmer!? It won’t be the end of the world if I need to purchase another rail as I can use the current one in the downstairs cloakroom. The important thing is to get the best solution at the end of the day.
Glad you made the comment about the surface pipework, as that is now what I am leaning towards as I don’t like the idea of taking an angle grinder to the walls of my house, which has already been channelled-out previously close-by! It’s enough to give me sleepless nights.
As I have your attention, can i ask a related question regarding chrome-coated copper and whether it can be bent in a pipe bender, or will it cause the plating to come off?
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