Best Option to Bring Power to my Shed

[OscarFoxtrot]

Hello,

Recently had a new shed/outbuilding built in the garden and would like the option of having two sockets and a light in there.

Shed is 6 feet from the house.

On the back wall (nearest the shed) inside the house I have 1 socket and 2 switched FCU's side by side (one feeds and outside socket which is directly through the wall and the other feeds an outside security light). All 3 outlets are on the downstairs ring (confirmed) which is RCD protected.

Ideally I'd like the option of isolating the power to the shed from inside the house but that back wall is starting to look clumsy enough already plus my young son is now in the habit of switching off the FCU's.

An (electrician) friend suggested just taking a feed from the outside socket to the shed.

Alternatively I could add another FCU inside to make it 3FCU's and a socket.

Or the final option is a run of approx 10m (would need to be underground) along the side of the house to the CU which is by the front door.

Whichever option it is the cable will be SWA suitably ran underground. My friend will (genuinely) make all the connections (I've never terminated SWA before) and I'll be the digger.

Cheers

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ideally I'd like the option of isolating the power to the shed from inside the house but that back wall is starting to look clumsy enough already plus my young son is now in the habit of switching off the FCU's.

Have your friend replace the FCUs with a 4- or 6-module grid plate (depending on whether you want the shed on the same switch as the outside socket, or one of its own) with fuse and keyswitch modules.

An (electrician) friend suggested just taking a feed from the outside socket to the shed.

Simplest.

Alternatively I could add another FCU inside to make it 3FCU's and a socket.

Is there a good reason to separate it from the outside socket?

Or the final option is a run of approx 10m (would need to be underground) along the side of the house to the CU which is by the front door.

Best, IMO.

Unless you like digging trenches, use larger cable than you need, e.g. 10mm², then you can supply a larger load if you take up ceramics, or glass making, or particle physics. Ideally keep it off the house CU - have a switchfuse on the meter tails, but then you'll need RCD protection in the shed.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Running the feed from an FCU, or the existing socket means that the total maximum current you ail be able to draw is 13amps.
You do not say what you plan to run from your two sockets (?). But if 13amps is sufficient, then take the simplest route, as detailed by BAS.

If you need a larger current, then a new circuit from the meter, or the consumer unit is needed and this is much more complicated.

 

[ericmark]

In order to (A) stop son turning off and (B) look neater I would consider a grid switch arrangement. With a grid switch you can build it as you want it. You fit the modules required so can have a fuse holder and no switch. So a double socket length will take 4 units be it 3 fuses and a switch or 3 fuses and a blank.

Design of outside socket may lend its self to being the point where SWA starts and likely using a switched FCU for light switch in shed allows lights to be fused down to 3A.

 

[DrJimFranklin]

I think you should advise what you intend to run in your new shed.. then perhaps you can be given definite advise. Kevin (BAS) has given you options...but which you choose depends on how you intend to use your shed...

 

[OscarFoxtrot]

Thank you, all good advice.

Shed will be used for a tumble dryer and I'll possibly put the old fridge/freezer in there when I get round to renovating the kitchen and getting a new one.

Lots to think about, I do like the idea of the grid switch to tidy up all those sockets.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

In order to (A) stop son turning off and (B) look neater I would consider a grid switch arrangement. With a grid switch you can build it as you want it. You fit the modules required so can have a fuse holder and no switch. So a double socket length will take 4 units be it 3 fuses and a switch or 3 fuses and a blank.

Losing DP isolation for outside gubbins might not be a good idea. Using these as switches would stop the little monster darling from switching off, at last until he finds and learns how to use the key...

 

[DrJimFranklin]

If you are going to put a Fridge/Freezer into the shed then you have no need to isolate the supply when not in the shed. I would urge the route of installing a new circuit specifically for the shed with all requisite protection required for the location. Yes this might be more expensive and harder to achieve, but it is the most practicable and safe solution overall given how you have stated you intend to utilise the supply.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I missed that....

I'll possibly put the old fridge/freezer in there when I get round to renovating the kitchen and getting a new one.

Before you go to that trouble, check what minimum ambient temperature the F/F will tolerate - moving it to a shed might be a waste of time.

 

[DrJimFranklin]

I missed that.....

He posted that info after your initial post...you didn't miss it.

I'll possibly put the old fridge/freezer in there when I get round to renovating the kitchen and getting a new one.

Before you go to that trouble, check what minimum ambient temperature the F/F will tolerate - moving it to a shed might be a waste of time.[/QUOTE]

That may be true, but a few small tube heaters on a frost stat can solve that problem..Oh dear, we have just increased the load on the shed again

 

[winston1]

The idea of heating a space for a fridge just jars against the ideas of energy conservation.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

That may be true, but a few small tube heaters on a frost stat can solve that problem.

Not sure that they necessarily would, in the depths of winter, if it's a flimsy, uninsulated shed.

 

[ericmark]

There are two considerations with a refrigeration device in a shed. One volt drop if the volt drop is too high then the unit may not start as it should and can burn out the overload when it repeatedly re-tries. Second is the de-frost pipe becoming blocked with frozen materials. Yes clearly a fridge can't maintain 5°C when the ambient temperature is not that high but that will no cause it to fail as such, also with older fridge freezers the fridge is just a percentage of the cooling delivered to freezer so it would get far too cool.

Modern units with inverter control are better able to cope, but in the main only chest freezers which normally don't have any auto defrost are OK to be kept in a unheated room. Even today in August outside is 12°C which is too cold for many units.

OK I have one in my garage but it's not controlled with standard freezer unit it has a external unit to maintain 19°C for brewing beer with a heater inside the fridge.

 

[OscarFoxtrot]

TBH the idea for putting a F/F in the shed only came about after a BBQ last week when I realised it would have been handy for folk to put beer in rather that having to go to the house. With that in mind and the good advice above I'll scrap the plan for the F/F in the shed as its really not necessary.

Thanks again.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

TBH the idea for putting a F/F in the shed only came about after a BBQ last week when I realised it would have been handy for folk to put beer in rather that having to go to the house.

Unless this is typical of your BBQs

you can carry on with your plan - it's only when it gets too cold that refrigeration appliances start to struggle. If you want a beer fridge for the summer it'll be fine - come autumn switch it off, dry the inside when it stops making condensation, and wedge the doors open.