Best Sealant for gaps between Laminate and Skirting

[nadim2000]

Dear All,

first time post.

We have laminate throughout the flat including the kitchen/diner but not the bathroom. As you can see in the pictures there are a variety of gaps throughout and there will be likely movement.

What is the best sealant/filler to use use here ?

My thinking is to use Siliconised Acrylic Sealant (white), in this case produced by Everbuild, which claims to be Mould Resistant and flexible to cope with movement.

Any other suggestions welcome.

 

[opps]

Siliconised Acrylic Sealant will probably crack as the laminate expands/contracts.

Your floor is a floating floor. If you were to apply pressure to the boards where they meet the skirting, they will probably push downwards slightly.

Faced with what I see in your images, I would use a sharp chisel to remove the old sealant left on the flooring, then slide some lining paper under the skirting, then apply your Siliconised Acrylic Sealant/whatever. Then using a flexible snap off 9mm blade knife, carefully cut through the excess sealant and lining paper.

The paper will prevent the sealant from sticking to the floor, thereby allowing the expansion contraction.

 

[DiyNutJob]

Use moulding. Pick the size you prefer.

Wickes Light Hardwood Quadrant Moulding - 12 x 12 x 2400mm | Wickes.co.uk

Wickes Light Hardwood Quadrant Moulding - 12 x 12 x 2400mm

www.wickes.co.uk

Wickes Light Hardwood Scotia Moulding - 15 x 15 x 2400mm | Wickes.co.uk

Wickes Light Hardwood Scotia Moulding - 15 x 15 x 2400mm

www.wickes.co.uk

 

[opps]

Use moulding. Pick the size you prefer.

Wickes Light Hardwood Quadrant Moulding - 12 x 12 x 2400mm | Wickes.co.uk

Wickes Light Hardwood Quadrant Moulding - 12 x 12 x 2400mm

www.wickes.co.uk

Wickes Light Hardwood Scotia Moulding - 15 x 15 x 2400mm | Wickes.co.uk

Wickes Light Hardwood Scotia Moulding - 15 x 15 x 2400mm

www.wickes.co.uk

I agree that mouldings are a valid option but they do have some disadvantages.

1. Cost
2. The OP will need a mitre block and saw (or similar).
3. Depending on the layout of the room, they can impede door opening (not very common though).
4. Any units that have cut outs to accommodate the existing skirting board will need to be tweaked to accommodate the moulding.

Just my opinion, but someone has gone to the trouble of removing the skirting to hide the expansion gap, thereby negating the need for a moulding.

 

[DiyNutJob]

but someone has gone to the trouble of removing the skirting to hide the expansion gap, thereby negating the need for a moulding.

Most likely a trades person as evidenced by the caulk, and big gaps that created the need for moulding.

 

[opps]

Most likely a trades person as evidenced by the caulk, and big gaps that created the need for moulding.

I have no idea which sealant was previously used, but it does look like the foam/matting under the laminate has compacted over time, hence the gap.

 

[dazlight]

Use scotia or quadrant around the perimeter

 

[Billinski]

Yes you can use silicone, though .....

A 10mm expansion gap is too large for just silicone, and anyway silicone will not provide for sufficient expansion, so the trick as used widespread in Asian countries is ......

1. Fill the expansion gap with tubular PE foam to just below the laminate surface, this is highly compressible
2. Tape the wall and edge of laminate
3. Then apply silicone on top, smooth with tools and/or wet finger dipped in water with a little washing up liquid to give smoothest finish
4. When dry remove tape.

Job done at very little cost.

 

[dazlight]

And when you laminate moves you can do the silicone idea again each year.