Best table saw for around £150?

[big-all]

did you check the blade would raise to the upright position by the adjustment handle!!!!!!!
suspect i t was adjusted towards the 45degree position to take up less room

the nuts i was talking about are to stop the adjustment when it gets to 90degree the blade angles at any angle inbetween

the red plastic locking ring behind the hight adjustment handle has to be loosend for both hight ajustment and angle ajustment [adjust angle via the handle on the side]the indicator of the angle is ontop of the hight handle
then tightened up for use

when i got mine i had to fit the blade and gaurds

youll be lucky if you get any machine that dosnt need simmilar" tinkering" at the price

 

[MatthewHUB]

Yes of course i checked it wasn't at an angle! It was tilted to the right as you look at the saw about to saw something. the end of the blade closest towardsa you was correct, but then the whole blade did not run parallel with the rest of the table, and it went off to the right. Does that make sense?

How much do you reckon you have to spend to get a good quality one that does not require 'tweaking'?

M

 

[big-all]

i am afraid i cant suggest much as i have the dw642 now for £430
http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=flip+saws&Search=1
chop saw turns over and makes a table saw

exactly the same as that one but older model

have you conciderd a combination saw!!! chop saw and table saw in one a bit off a comprimise but good for allrounding

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/search.asp?q=table+saws
note the clarke equivelent of the ryobi at the bottom off the pictute

i had the machine mart[clark] eqivilent cost nearly £300 now you get a half decent branded one for about £240

 

[petewood]

How much do you reckon you have to spend to get a good quality one that does not require 'tweaking'?

M

I don't want to depress you but my saw cost £7,000 plus vat and I still had to make minor adjustments to get it spot on.

 

[MatthewHUB]

Hmmm Petewood that's not what i wanted to hear! Well i'll see when my new saw arrives. i hope it comes tomorrow - Who knows, maybe i won't have to do anything to it! Btw, is there an english equivalent of the delta tenoning jig for table saws? Or how else can the be done on the table saw?

M

 

[Dewy]

I 've been using a Draper table saw for about 8 years.
This cost much more than your £150 at that time but as with all power tools intended for DIY use they have gone down considerably.
On the Draper the riving knife and guard connect to the back of the saw with a long 6mm bolt.
This makes removal easy and is primarily for moving the knife and guard when the blade it tipped at an angle.
I've spent a lifetime using cutting machinery but it still scares the sh** out of me if I do something that needs the guard removed.
A slight slip can take your fingers off in a fraction of a second but they wont grow back no matter how long you live.
All tools come as a 'kit' and do not become tools until you have spent time tuning them.
First you adjust the blade so it is parallel with the mitre slot and then the fence so it is also parallel.
All table saws should have this adjustable.
This is where the instruction booklet comes into its own.
Time spent reading the instructions and tuning the tool pays dividends.
Even much more expensive table saws only leave the factory in a 'close enough' state.
They then need adjusting to get the best out of them.

 

[MatthewHUB]

Hi guys my new saw came, and the defective one was collected and i'm so so soo so so pleased with it! I spent about 3 hours putting it all together but thank god it was aligned properly this time! I was using it all afternoon and made some good looking tenons for my bench. I'll have to post some pics if i get a chance. With regard to removing the guard, i didn't completely remove it, but removed the little pin at the back of the metal thing behind the blade which allows the plastic guard to be raised completely, so it helps doing complicated stuff. Anyway, i'm generally really chuffed with it - still need to get a better blade but i think this will do for this particular project. many thanks for all your help regarding this subject - i was completely new to this forum and you made me feel v welcome. thanks once again,

M

 

[big-all]

great enjoy the noisy beast

dont forget to take the time for fine adjustment as it will save a lot off time with close fitting components in weeks to come

as a mater of interest how much assembly did you have to do was it still several packets off vaccum wrapped components for each part or have they refined the packaging!! and the amount of assembly!!!

 

[MatthewHUB]

Sorry Big All for the late reply, i've been abroad. I haven't taken any time for fine adjustment as i'm not really sure what to do. I have to stick bits of paper into where the mitre fence attaches so that it runs paralell with the blade! In terms of assembly, there was LOADS of stuff to do. The stand was completely in pieces with vacuum sealed nuts and bolts - this was the hardest thing to put together, but the saw came with the blade already fitted, so all i had to do was fit the handles and the ryvying knife and guard and extension tables. I'm glad the blade came already done as i would eb so paranoid that i hadn't done it properly and it flew off...

Anyway, in short i'm very very happy with it. Bench almost finished. Oh, the instructions were v crap. Thanks again, M

 

[big-all]

thanks for getting back m

your saw may be better than mine i had to file a few thow off the aly casting on the edge off the casting that meets the back edge of the fence nearest to the front edge of the machine

assemble the fence take somthing you know is parralel a bit of 2by1 a ruler what ever place it beside the fully raised blade make sure if it rests on a tooth at one end it rests on a tooth at the other end slide the fence accross and tighten [move it a mm or two each way untill your shure its naturaly resting against the parralel edge rather than being forced against it] this should give you an idea how close it is

hope this helps